Ningpo to Shanghai in 1857/The Nan-kae-ling to Ling-haen
Fwo-paleu, a straggling village of 250 families is one lē west from Ning-kwo-deo;—and on a similar course, within distances of a lē and a half from each other, still descending from the pass, are the hamlets of Wo-chee-deo of 60 families—So-che-dah of 5 or 6 families,—In-gee-wei of 30 families, and Shing-fa of 5 families. Basket making is largely practiced in this quarter.
The course from In-gee-wei to the hamlet of Ting-yuen of 300 families is N. W.—the distance four miles, principally through a valley over a mile and a half wide. The lime stone strata hereabout has a pitch to the N.E. of 30.° Much taste is exhibited by families in this quarter in the neatness with which they dress their children, whose blue or black jackets are prettily lined at the collars with red cloth and embroidered with black or coloured silk.
Five lē North of Ting-yuen the traveller arrives at an exceedingly fine five arched Bridge built of granite, the river bed at this place being over 200 feet across. The centre arch is 31 feet span—the other arches 29 feet span—breadth 15 feet. The stream here, running from the south, unless swollen by rains, is very shallow, and only navigable by the bamboo rafts.
Turning sharply from the North to W.N.W. at four miles distant from the Bridge, the road leads over another well built three arched bridge, the stream running from west, into Wong-sin-kwo, a village of 300 families, over which on a hill, is a square five storied Brick pagoda; and N. W. by N. distant apparently 20 or 30 miles is the celebrated Mountain Teen-muh-san 天目山 (Heaven's-eye).
Two le N. W. from Wong-sin-kwo is the district City of Ling-haen, a small place; the suburbs on the N. W. side containing about as many inhabitants as the city itself, reported as having 800 families within the walls and 600 without. Ling-haen is one of the 1600 walled cities of which the Empire boasts. But walled it can hardly be called;—the boundary, of about three miles, being a mere neichune erection, seven or eight feet high and under a couple of feet thick; with gates at each of the cardinal points. Between 30 and 40,000 Bales of Silk are sent annually from this quarter, principally to the Shanghae market. For a good Carolus dollar only 980 cash can be obtained,—Rice standing at 46 cash a catty or nearly $5 a pecul. For their exports, Sycee and Opium are returned from Shanghae.
The antiquarian finds several objects of interest at Ling-haen; one large area containing the ruins of an ancient Temple, and some lofty stone images both of the human and brute forms. The ancestral hall of the family "Tsien" is within the compound spoken of, and a tablet erected in Kien-loong's reign records the merits of one of the Tsiens, who, when the country was in a state of anarchy, after the destruction of the Sung dynasty ( A D 479 ) was a great benefactor, and almost founded a dynasty himself (13).
In the city temple is a fine iron bell over five feet high, cast during the Ming dynasty, and bearing a motto which, translated, runs "The state protects the people—without the state there could be no tranquillity" Some coloured images in this temple in the habiliments of ancient dynasties, are very expressive; a cavalier at the entrance, life size, having flowing curls, hat and dress, as nearly as possible after pictures of the gay courtiers of our Charles the 2nd's time.