Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 12/Report on the Territory of Oregon
DOCUMENT Report on the Territory of Oregon {By Charles Wilkes, Commander of the United States Exploring Expedition, 1838-1842 The Wilkes expedition was a world cruise. It was to demon- onstrate the safe sailing- routes and commercial opportunities open to American shipping on the high seas, that is, in those regions which would naturally be covered in passing from the eastern shores of this country, via Cape Horn, around the world. The islands of the Pacific were to be given special attention. In the long list of his instructions we find that he was to "direct course to the Northwest Coast of America, making such surveys and examinations, first of the territory of the United States on the seaboard, and on the Columbia river, and after- wards along the coast of California, with special reference to the Bay of San Francisco, as you can accomplish by the month of October following your arrival." But Lieutenant Wilkes' examination of the Oregon Country was altogether more extended and purposeful than these meagre instructions seemed to call for. The Puget Sound country was given a careful examination; a party was sent east across the mountains ; from Fort Vancouver another party was dispatched overland to California. Immediately following his departure from the Northwest Coast, he sent from Honolulu to the Navy Department, No- vember 24, 1841, a preliminary report on the Oregon Terri- tory, promising a complete statement of what his examination had revealed as soon as he returned to New York. His sense of responsibility in the matter was expressed in his first report as follows : "Having been well aware of the little information in possession of the Government relative to the northern sec- tion of this country [Oregon], including the Strait of Juan de Fuca, with its extensive sounds and inlets, I thought it proper, from its vast importance in the settlement of the boundary 270 CHARLES WILKES question, though not embraced in my instructions, to devote a large portion of my time to a thorough survey and examina- tion, without, however, overlooking or neglecting any part of that which was distinctly embraced in them." The report given below, made on his return to this coun- try, would probably have been of use to Webster in the nego- tiations leading to the Webster-Ashburton treaty, signed August 9, 1842, had Ashburton's instructions not forestalled all possibility of the settlement of the Oregon boundary ques- tion at that time. The Columbia river was the most favorable line that Lord Ashburton was by his government authorized to offer. During the following session of Congress Pendleton in the House and Linn in the Senate introduced resolutions request- ing this report from the Secretary of the Navy. The Pendle- ton resolution was passed, but the action was rescinded after a few days ; Linn's was on his own motion on January 5, 1843, laid on the table. The reluctance of the administration to make this report of Wilkes public in January, 1843, was due probab- ly in part to the earnest plea in it that none of the 'Oregon country south of 54-40' should be relinquished by the United States ; the plan of military occupation of the region which Wilkes outlined and urged action on was no doubt the main cause for withholding the report. The measure of influence that the publication of this report early in 1843 would have had will be appreciated when it is remembered that Linn's bill passed the Senate on February 3, 1843, and that nearly a thousand pioneers were just then pre- paring to rendezvous at Westport, Missouri, for migration to Oregon. The text of the document was taken from the Congressional Record of July 15, 1911. Hon. Thomas W. Prosch of Seattle had secured a copy from the archives of the Navy Depart- ment, and had prevailed upon Representative William E. Humphrey of Washington to secure the publication of it as an extension of his "remarks in the Record." Through the kind- ness of Mr. Prosch the editor of the Quarterly was furnished with the copy. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 271 U. S. S. Vincennes, New York, June, 1842. Sir : I have the honor to inclose herewith a report upon the Territory of Oregon, together with the maps referred to there- in. I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, CHARLES WILKES, Commander of Exploring Expedition. To the Hon. A. P. Upshur, Secretary of the Navy, Washington. OREGON TERRITORY. The Territory embraced under the name of Oregon, and rep- resented on the accompanying map, extends from latitude 42 north to that of 54 40' north and west of the Rocky Moun- tains. Its natural boundaries, were they attended to, would confine it within the above geographical limits. On the east it has the range of Rocky Mountains along its whole extent ; on the south those of the Klamet Range running on the parallel of 42 and dividing it from upper California; on the west the Pacific Ocean ; and on the north the western trend of the Rocky Moun- tains and the chain of lakes near and along the parallels of 54 and 55' north dividing it from the British Territory, and it is remarkable that within these limits all the rivers that flow through the Territory take their rise. The Territory is divided into three natural belts or sections, viz: First. That between the Pacific Ocean and Cascade Moun- tains, or western section. Second. That between the Cascade Mountains and the Blue Mountain Range, or middle section. Third. That between the Blue and Rocky Mountain chains, or eastern section, and this division will equally apply to the soil, climate, and productions. 272 CHARLES WILKES The mountain ranges run for the most part in parallel lines with the coast, and rising in many places above the snow line (here found to be 6,500 feet) would naturally produce a dif- ference of temperatures between them and also affect their productions. Our surveys and explorations were confined for the most part to the two first, claiming more interest, being less known and more in accordance with my instructions. MOUNTAINS. The Cascade Range, or that nearest the coast, runs from the southern boundary on a parallel with the seacoast the whole length of the Territory, north and south, rising in many places in high peaks from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea in regular cones. Their distance from the coast line is from 100 to 150 miles, and they almost interrupt the communi- cation between the sections except where the two great rivers, the Columbia and Eraser, force a passage through them. There are a few mountain passes, but they are difficult and only to be attempted late in the spring and in the summer. A smaller range (the Classet) lies to the north of the Colum- bia between the coast and the waters of Puget Sound and along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. This has several high peaks which rise above the snow line, but from their proximity to the sea they are not at all times covered. Their general direction is north and south, but there are many spurs or offsets that cause this portion to be very rugged. The Blue Mountains are irregular in their course and occa- sionally interrupted, but generally trend from north by east to northeast and from south to southwest. In some parts they may be traced as spurs or offsets of the Rocky Mountains. Near the southern boundary they unite with the Klamet Range, which runs east and west from the Rocky Mountains. The Rocky Mountains are too well known to need descrip- tion. The different passes will, however, claim attention hereREPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 273 after. North of 48 the ranges are nearly parallel and have the rivers flowing between them. ISLANDS. Attached to the territory are groups of islands bordering its northern coast. Among these are the large islands of Vancou- ver and Washington or Queen Charlotte, the former being 260 miles in length and 50 in breadth, containing about 15,000 square miles, and the latter 150 miles in length and 30 in breadth, containing 4,000 square miles. Though somewhat broken in surface their soil is said to be well adapted to agri- culture. They have many good harbors, and have long been the resort of those engaged in the fur trade. They enjoy a mild and salu- brious climate, and have an abundance of fine fish frequenting their waters, which are taken in large quantities by the natives. Coal of good quantity is found here, specimens of which I obtained. The Hudson Bay Co. have made a trial of it, but owing to its having been taken from near the surface it was not very highly spoken of. Mines of mineral are also said to exist by those acquainted. They both appear to be more densely inhabited than other portions of the territory. The natives are considered a treach- erous race, particularly those in the vicinity of Johnstons Strait, and are to be closely watched when dealing with them. At the southeast end of Vancouver there is a small archi- pelago of islands through which the Canal de Arro runs ; they are for the most part inhabited, well wooded, and composed of granite and pudding stone, which appears to be the prevailing rock to the north of a line east and west of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. They are generally destitute of fresh water, have but few anchorages, and strong currents render navigation among them difficult. The islands near the mainland, called on the maps Pitts and Banks, or the Prince Royal Islands, are of the same character and are only occasionally resorted to by the Indians for the purposes of fishing. 274 CHARLES WILKES The coast of the mainland north of the parallel of 49 is broken up by numerous inlets, called canals, having perpendicu- lar sides and very deep water in them, affording no harbors and but few commercial inducements to frequent. The land is equally cut up by spurs from the Cascade Range, which here intersects the country in all directions, and pre- vents its adaptation to agriculture. Its value is principally in its timber, and it is believed that few, if any, countries can compare with it in this respect. There is no point on the coast where a settlement could be formed between Erasers River or 49 north and the northern boundary of 54 40' north that would be able to supply its own wants. The Hudson Bay Co. have two posts within this section of the country, Fort McLaughlin in Mill Bank Sound, in latitude 52 10' north, and Fort Simpson, in latitude 54 30' north, within Dundas Island, and at the entrance of Chatham Sound, but they are solely posts for the fur trade of the coast, and are supplied twice a year with provisions, and so forth. It is believed that the company has yet no establishment on any of the islands, but I understood it was in contemplation to make one on Vancouver Island in the vicinity of Nootka Sound or that of Clayoquot. Owing to the dense fogs the coast is extremely dangerous, and they render it at all times difficult to approach and navigate upon. The interior of this portion of the territory is traversed by these ranges of mountains, with the several rivers which take their rise in them, and is probably unequaled for its rugged- ness, and from all accounts incapable of anything like cultiva- tion. The Columbia in its trend to the westward under the parallel of 48 cuts off the central or Blue Mountain Range, which is not again met with until on the parallel of 45. From 45 they trend away to the south and afterwards to the south and west until they fall into the Klamet Range. They are partially wooded. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 275 RIVERS. The Columbia claims the first notice. Its northern branch takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains in latitude 50 north longitude 116 west; from thence it pursues a northern route to near McGillivary's Pass through the Rocky Mountains. At the boat encampment it is 2,300 feet above the level of the sea, where it receives two small tributaries the Canoe River and that from the Committee's Punch Bowl; from thence it turns south, having some obstruction through its safe navigation, and receiving many tributaries in its course to Colville, among which are the Kootanie, or Flat Bow, and the Flat Head, or Clarke River, from the east, and that of Colville from the west. It is bounded in all its course by a range of high mountains, well wooded, and in places expands into a line of lakes before it reaches Colville, where it is 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, having a fall of a little over 100 feet in 220 miles. To the south of this it trends to the west, receiving the Spokane River from the east, which is not navigable, and takes its rise in the Lake of Coeur d'Alene. Thence it pursues a westerly course for about 60 miles, receiving several smaller streams, and at its bend to the south it is joined by the Okano- gan, a river that has its source in a line of lakes, affording canoe and boat navigation of considerable extent to the north. The Columbia thence passes to the south until it reaches Walla Walla, or the latitude of 45, a distance of 160 miles, receiving the Piscous, Yakima and Point de Bois, or Entiyate- combe, from the west, which take their rise in the Cascade Range; and also its great southeastern branch, the Saptin, or Lewis, which has its source in the Rocky Mountains near our southern boundary, and brings a large quantity of water to increase its volume. The Lewis is not navigable even for canoes, except in reaches. The rapids are extensive and of frequent occurrence, it general- ly passing between the Rocky Mountain spurs and the Blue Mountains. 276 CHARLES WILKES It receives the Kooscooske, Salmon, and several other rivers from the east and west, the former from the Rocky Mountains, the latter from the Blue Mountains, and were it navigable would much facilitate the intercourse with this part of the country. Its length to its junction with the Columbia is 520 miles. The Columbia at Walla Walla is 1,286 feet above the level of the sea and about 3,500 feet wide; it now takes its last turn to the westward, receiving the Urnatilla, Quisnels, John Days, and Shutes Rivers from the south and Cathlatses from the north, and pursuing its rapid course for 80 miles previous to passing through the range of Cascade Mountains in a series of falls and rapids that obstruct its flow and form insurmountable barriers to the passage of boats by water during the flood; these difficulties are, however, overcome by portages. From thence is had still-water navigation for 40 miles, where its course is again obstructed by rapids; then to the ocean, 120 miles, it is navigable for vessels of 12 feet draft of water at the lowest state of the river, though obstructed by many sand bars. In this part it receives the Willamette from the south and the Cowlitz from the north. The former is navigable to the mouth of the Klackamus 20 miles, 3 miles below its falls, for small boats ; the latter can not be called navigable except for a small part of the year during the flood, and then only for canoes and barges. The width of the Columbia within 20 miles of its mouth is much increased, and it joins the ocean between Cape Disap- pointment and Point Adams, forming a sand spit from such by deposit and causing a dangerous bar, which greatly impedes its navigation and entrance. Fraser River, next claims attention. It takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains near the source of Canoe River, taking a westerly course of 80 miles. It then turns to the south, re- ceiving the waters of Stuarts River, which rises in a chain of lakes near the northern boundary of the Territory. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 277 It then pursues a southerly course, receiving the waters of the Chilcouten, Pinkslitsa, and several small streams from the west, and those of Thompsons River, Quisnels, and other streams from the east (these take their rise in lakes, and a few may be navigated in canoes by making portages), and under the parallel of 49 it breaks through the Cascade Range in a succession of falls and rapids, and after a westerly course of 70 miles it empties into the Gulf of Georgia in the latitude of 49 07' north. This latter portion is navigable for vessels that can pass its bar drawing 12 feet of water; its whole length being 350 miles. The Chikeeles is next in importance. It has three sources among the range of hills that intersect the country north of the Columbia River. After a very tortuous course and receiving some smaller streams issuing from the lakes in the high ground near the headwaters of Hoods Canal and Puget Sound, it dis- embogues in Grays Harbor. It is not navigable except for canoes ; its current is rapid and the stream much obstructed. To the south of Columbia there are many small streams, but three of which deserve the name of rivers, the Umpqua, Too- too-tut-na (or Roque River), and the Klamet, which latter empties into the ocean south of the paralled of 42. None of these form harbors capable of receiving a vessel of more than 8 feet draft of water, and the bars for the most part of the year are impassable from the surf that sets in on the coast. The character of the great rivers is peculiar, rapid and sunken much below the level of the country, with perpendicular banks; indeed, they are, as it were, in trenches, it being ex- tremely difficult to get at the water in many places owing to the steep basaltic walls, and during their rise they are in places confined by walls, which back the water some distance, sub- merging islands and tracts of low prairie, having the appear- ance of extensive lakes. LAKES. There are in the various sections of the country many large and small lakes. The largest of these are the Okanogan Chain, 278 CHARLES WILKES Stuarts, Quisnells, and Kamloops in the northern section ; the Flat Bow, Coeur d'Alene, and Kallushelm in the middle sec- tion; and those forming the headwaters of the large rivers in the eastern section. The country is well watered, and there are but two places where an abundance, either from rivers, springs, or rivulets, can not be obtained. The smaller lakes add much to the picturesque beauty of the country. They are generally at the headwaters of the smaller streams. The map will point out more particularly their ex- tent and locality. HARBORS. All the harbors formed by the rivers on the seacoast are ob- structed with extensive sand bars, which make them difficult to enter, and they are continually changing. The rivers bring down large quantities of sand, which on meeting with the ocean is deposited, causing a gradual increase of the impediment which already exists at their mouths. None of them can be deemed safe ports to enter. The entrance to the Columbia is impracticable two-thirds of the year, and the difficulty of leaving equally great. The north sands are rapidly increasing and extending farther to the south. In the memory of several of those who have been longest in the country, the cape has been encroached upon some hundred feet by the sea and the north sand much extended to the south, and during my short experience nearly half an acre of the middle sand was washed away in the course of a few days. These are known to change every season. The exploration of the Clatsop, or south channel, it is be- lieved, will afford more safety to vessels capable of enter- ing the river. The depth of water on the bar seems not to have changed, though the passage has become somewhat narrower. Grays Harbor will admit of vessels of light draft of water (10 feet), but there is but little room in it on account of the REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 279 extensive mud and sand flats. A survey was made of it, to which I refer for particulars. This, however, is not the case with the harbors found within the Strait of Juan de Fuca, of which there are many, and no part of the word affords finer inland sounds or a greater number of harbors than can be found here capable of receiving the largest class of ships, and without a danger to them that is not visible. From the rise and fall of the tide (18 feet all) facili- ties are afforded for the erection of work for a great maritime nation. For further information our extensive surveys of these waters are referred to. CLIMATE. That of the western section is mild throughout the year, neither experiencing the cold of winter nor the heat of summer. By my observations the mean temperature was found to be 54 F. The prevailing winds in the summer are from northwest, and in the winter from southwest and southeast, which are tem- pestuous. The winter is supposed to last from December to February ; the rains usually begin to fall in November and last until March, but they are not heavy though frequent. Snow some- times falls, but it seldom lays over three days. The frosts are early, occurring in the latter part of August ; this, however, is to be accounted for by the proximity of the mountains. A mountain or easterly wind invariably causes a great fall in the temperature. These winds are not frequent. During the summer of our operations I find but three days noted of easerly winds having occurred. The nights are cold and affect the vegetation so far that corn will not ripen. Fruit trees blossom early in April at Nisqually and Van- couver, and at the former on the 12th of May peas were a foot high and strawberries were in full bloom, and salad had al- ready gone to seed 3 feet high. 280 CHARLES WILKES The mean height of the barometer during our stay at Nis- qually was 30.046 inches, and of the thermometer 66 58' F. The greatest heat was 98 F. at 2 p. m. July 4, and at 4 a. m. of the same day it was 50 F. The lowest degree was 39 at 4am. May 22, and at 5 p. m. of the same day the temperature was 72 F. From June to September at Vancouver the mean height of the barometer was 30.32 inches and of the thermometer 66 33' F. Out of 160 days 96 were fair, 19 cloudy, and 11 rainy. The rains are light. This is evident from the hills not being washed, but having a sward to their top although at great declivity. The second or middle section is subject to droughts; during the summer the atmosphere is much dryer and warmer, and the winter much colder than in the western section. Its extremes of heat and cold are more frequent and greater, the mercury at times falling as low as 18 F. in the winter and rising to 108 F. in the shade in the summer, and a daily difference of temperature of about 40 F. It has been, however, found ex- tremely salubrious, possessing a pure and healthy air. The stations of the missionaries and posts of the Hudson Bay Co. have afforded me the means of obtaining information rela- tive to the climate; although they have not kept full data, yet their observations afford a tolerably good knowledge of the weather. In summer it is cooled by the strong westerly breezes to re- place the vacuum produced by the heated prairie grounds. No dew falls in this section. The climate of the third or easterly section is extremely variable ; the temperature during the day, ranging from 50 to 60, renders it unfit for agriculture, and there are but few places in its northern part where the climate would not effect- ually put a stop to its ever becoming settled. In each day, from the best account, one has all the changes incident to spring, summer, autumn, and winter. There are places where small farms might be located, but they are few in number. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY SOIL. 281 That of the first, or western, section varies in the northern part from a light-brown loam to a thin vegetable earth, with gravel and sand as the subsoil ; in the middle parts, from a rich, heavy loam and unctuous clay to a deep, heavy black loam on a trap rock ; and in the southern the soil is generally good, ranging from a black vegetable loam to decomposed basalt, with stiff clay and portions of loose, gravelly soil. The hills are generally basalt, sandstone, and slate. Between the Umpqua and the boundary the rocks are primi- tive, consisting of talcose, hornblende, and granite, and produce a gritty and poor soil. There are, however, some portions with rich prairies covered with oaks. The soil of the second, or middle, section is for the most part a light, sandy loam, in the valleys rich alluvial, and the hills are generally barren. The third, or eastern, section is a rocky, broken, and barren country, stupendous mountain spurs in all directions, and ar- fording little level ground, with snow lying on the mountains nearly, if not quite, the whole year through. AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS, ETC. The first section, for the most part, is a well-timbered coun- try. It is intersected with the spurs or offsets from the Cascade Mountains, which render its surface much broken up ; these are covered with a dense forest. It is well watered, and com- munication between the northern, southern, and middle parts is difficult on account of the various rivers, spurs of mountains, and so forth. The timber consists of pines, firs, spruce, oaks (red and white), ash, arbutus, arbor vitse, cedar, poplar, maple, willow, cherry, and yew, with a close undergrowth of hazel, rubus, roses, and so forth. The richest and best soil is found on the. second, or middle, prairie, and is best adapted for agriculture, the high and low being excellent for pasture land. 282 CHARLES WILKES The line of woods runs on the east side and near the foot of the Cascade Range. The climate and soil are admirably adapted for all kinds of grain wheat, rye, oats, barley, peas, and so forth. Corn does not thrive in any part of this territory where it has been tried. Many fruits appear to succeed well, particularly the apple and pear. Vegetables thrive exceedingly well and yield most abund- antly. The surface of the middle section is about 1,000 feet above the level of the lower or western section, and is generally a rolling prairie country. That lying to the north of the parallel of 48 is very much broken, with mountain chains and rivers ; consequently barren and very rugged. From the great and fre- quent changes in its temperature it is totally unfitted for agri- culture, but is well filled with game of all kinds that are found in the country. The mountain chains on the parallel of 48 are cut off by the Columbia, as before stated, leaving an extensive rolling country in the center of the territory, which is well adapted for grazing. The southern part of this section is destitute of timber or wood, unless the worm wood, Artimesia, may be so called. To the north of the paralled of 49 it is covered with forests. Wheat and other grains grow well in the bottoms where they can be irrigated. The soil in such places is rich and capable of producing most anything. The missionaries have succeeded in getting good crops. Stock succeeds here even better than in the lower country, and, not- withstanding the severe cold, their cattle are not housed, nor is provender laid in for them, the country being sufficiently supplied with fodder in the natural hay that is abundant every- where on the prairie, and is preferred by the cattle to the fresh grass of the bottoms. No attempts at agriculture have been made in this section ex- cept at Fort Hall. The small grains thrive tolerably well, toREPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 283 gather with vegetables, and a sufficient quantity has been ob- tained to supply the wants of the post. The ground is well adapted for grazing in the prairies, and, despite its changeable climate, stock is found to thrive well and endure the severity of the winters without protection. This section is exceedingly dry and arid, rains seldom falling and but little snow. The country is partially timbered and the soil much impregnated with salts. The missionary station on the Kooscooske, near the western line of this section, is thought by the missionaries to be a wet climate. The soil along the river bottoms is generally alluvial, and would yield good crops were it not for the overflowings of the river, which check and kill the grain. Some of the finest por- tions of the land are thus unfitted for cultivation; they are generally covered with water before the banks are overflown in consequence of the quicksands that exist in them and through which the water percolates. The rivers of this territory afford no fertilizing properties to the soil, but, on the contrary, are destitute of all substances, being perfectly clear and cold. The temperature of the Colum- bia in the latter part of May was 42 and in September 68. The rise of the streams from the Cascade Mountains usually takes place twice a year in February and November from the rains ; that of the Columbia in May and June from the melting of the snows. Sometimes it is very sudden, if heavy rains occur at that period, but usually it is gradual in reaching its greatest height about the 6th to the 15th of June. Its perpendicular rise is from 18 to 20 feet at Vancouver, where a line of embankment has been throw up to protect the lower prairie, but it has been gradually flooded, although the water has not risen within a few feet of its top, and has in most cases destroyed the crops; it is the intention to abandon its cultivation and devote it to pasturage. The greatest rise in the Willamette takes place in February, and I was informated that it rose sometimes 20 to 25 feet, and quite suddenly in some places, but soon subsides. It occasion- ally causes much damage. Both the Willamette and Cowlitz 284 tHARLES WlLKES in their lower sections are much swollen by the backing of their waters during the height of the Columbia and all their lower ground submerged. This puts an effectual bar to their being used for anything but pasturage, which is fine through- out the year, and used excepting in the season of the floods, when the cattle are driven to the high grounds. My knowledge of the agriculture of this territory, it will be well to mention, is derived from visits being made to the various settlements, except Fort Langley and Fort Hall. That of the Indians on the different islands in Puget Sound and the Admiralty Inlet consists of potatoes principally, which are ex- tremely fine and raised in great abundance, and now constitute a large portion of their food. At Nisqually the Hudson Bay Co. had fine crops of wheat, oats, peas, potatoes, and so forth. The wheat, it was supposed, would yield 15 bushels to the acre. The farm has been two years under cultivation, and is principally intended for a graz- ing farm and dairy. They have now 70 milch cows, and make butter, and so forth, to supply their contract with the Russians. The Cowlitz farm is also in the western section; the pro- duction of wheat is good, about 20 bushels to the acre; the ground, however, has just been brought under cultivation. They have here 600 acres, which are situated on the Cowlitz River, about 30 miles from the Columbia. The company is about to erect a saw and grist mill. This farm is finely situ- ated, and the harvest of 1841 produced 7,000 bushels of wheat. Several Canadians are also established here, who told me that they succeeded well with but little work. They have erected buildings, live comfortably, and work small farms of 50 acres. I was told that the stock on this farm does not thrive so well as elsewhere. There are no low prairie grounds on that side of the river in the vicinity, and it is too far for them to resort to the Kamass plains, a fine grazing country a few miles distant, where the wolves would make sad depredations with the increase if not well watched. The hilly portions of the country, although the soil in many parts is very good, yet it is so heavily timbered as to make it REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 285 in the present state of the country valueless. This is also the case with many fine portions of level grounds, but there are large tracts of fine prairie suitable for cultivation and ready for the plow. The Willamette Valley is supposed to be the finest portion of the country, though I am of opinion that many portions of it will be found far superior in the southern part of it. It is the largest settlement and is included within a distance of some 15 miles in the northern part of the valley. About 60 families are settled there, the industrious of whom appear to be thriv- ing. They are composed of American missionaries and the trap- pers and Canadians who were formerly servants of the Hudson Bay Co. All of them appear to be in good condition, but I was, on the whole, disappointed from the reports that had been made to me, not to find it in a state of greater forwardness, consid- ering the advantages the missionaries have had. In comparison with our own country, I should say that the labor required in this Territory for subsistence and to acquire wealth is%i the proportion of one to three, or, in other words, a man must work through the year three times as long in the United States to gain the like compensation. All the care of stock which occupies so much time with us requires no atten- tion here, and on their rapid increase he would alone support himself. The wheat of this valley yields 35 to 40 bushels for one sown, or 20 to 30 bushels to the acre, its quality is superior to that grown in the United States, and its weight near 4 pounds to the bushel heavier. The above is the yield of new land, but it is believed that it will greatly exceed this after the third crop, when the land has been broken up and well tilled. After passing into the middle section the climate undergoes a decided change ; in place of the cool and moist atmosphere, one that is dry and arid is entered, and the crops suffer from drought. The only wood or bush seen is the wormwood (Arti- mesia), and this only in the neighborhood of the streams. All cultivation has to be more or less carried on by irrigation. 286 CHARLES WILKES The country bordering the Columbia above the hills to the north and south, is the poorest in the Territory, and has no doubt lead many to look upon the middle section as perfectly useless to man. Twenty or 30 miles on either side of the river is so, but beyond that a fine grazing country exists, and in very many places there are portions of it that might be advantag- eously farmed. On the banks of the Walla Walla, a small stream running into the Columbia, about 25 miles from the company's post, a missionary is established, who raises very fine wheat on its low bottoms and is enabled to use its waters for the purpose of irrigation. This is also the case at the mission establishment at Lapwai, on the Kooscooske, where fine crops are raised ; grains and vegetables thrive remarkably well, and some fruits are raised. In the northern part of this section, at Chimekaine, there is another missionary station near the Spokane, and at Colville the country is well adapted for agriculture, and it is successful- ly carried on. Colville supplies all the northern posts., and the missionaries are doing well. The northern part of this section will be able to supply the whole with wood. Here also the changes of tem- perature are great during the 24 hours, but are not injurious to the small grain. The cultivation of fruits has not been suc- cessful. T'f'^ FISHERIES. It will be almost impossible to give an idea of the extensive fisheries in the rivers and on the coast; they all abound in salmon of the finest flavor, which run twice a year, from May until October, and appear inexhaustible; the whole population live upon them. The Columbia produces the finest and probably affords the greatest numbers. There are some few of the branches of the Columbia that the spring fish do not enter, but they are plenti- fully supplied in the fall. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 287 The great fishery of the Columbia is at The Dalles, but all the rivers are well supplied; the last one on the northern branch of the Columbia is near Colville, at the Kettle Falls, but they are found above this in the river and its tributaries. In Fraser River they are said to be very numerous, but not so large ; they are unable to get above the falls, some 80 miles from the sea. In the rivers and sounds are found several kinds of salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, cod, carp, sole, flounders, ray, perch, herring, lamprey eels, and a kind of smelt called sprow in great abundance; also large quantities of shellfish, viz, crabs, clams, oysters, mussels, and so forth, which are all used by the natives and constitute the greater proportion of their food. Whales in numbers are found along the coast, and are fre- quently captured by the Indians in and at the mouth of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. GAME. Abundance of game exists, such as elk, deer, antelopes, bears, wolves, foxes, muskrats, martins, beavers, a few grizzly bears, and sifflines, a kind of rat which are eaten by the Canadians. In the middle section, or that designated as the rolling prairie, no game is found. In the eastern section the buffalo is met with. The fur-bearing animals are decreasing in number yearly, particularly south of the parallel of 48. Indeed it is very doubtful whether they are sufficiently numerous to return the expenses of hunting them. The Hudson Bay Co. have almost the exclusive monopoly on this business. They have decreased owing to being hunted without regard to season. This is not, however, the case to the north ; there the company have been left to exercise their own rule and prevent the indiscriminate slaughter of the old and young and out of the proper season. In the spring and fall the rivers are literally covered with geese, ducks, and so forth. 288 CHARLES WILKES In the eastern section the buffalo abound and are hunted by the Oregon Indians, as well as the Blackfeet. Wolves are troublesome to the settlers, but they are not so numerous as formerly. From the advantages this country possesses it bids fair to have an extensive commerce on advantageous terms with most parts of the Pacific. It is well calculated to produce the following, which certainly in a few years after its settlement would become its staples, viz, furs, salted beef and pork, fish, grain, flour, wool, hides, tallow, lumber and perhaps coal. A ready market for all these is now to be found in the Pacific and in return for them sugars, coffee, and other tropical productions may be had at the Sand- wich Islands advantages that few new countries possess, viz, the facilities of a market and one that in time must become of immense extent. MANUFACTURING POWER. This country, it is believed, affords as many sites for water power as any other, and in many places within reach of its navi- gable waters. The timber of the western section to the south of 49 is not so good as that of the north; this is imputed to the climate being milder and more changeable. A great difference is found between the north and south sides of the trees, the one being a hard and close grain, while the other is open and spongy. To the north of the parallel of 49, on Frazer River, an abundance of fine timber for spars of any dimensions is easily obtained. There will always be a demand for the timber of this coun- try at high prices throughout the Pacific. The oak is well adapted for ship timber, and abundance of ash, cedar, cypress, and arbor-vitse may be had for fuel, fencing, etc. ; and although the southern part of the middle section is destitute of timber it may be supplied from the eastern and northern parts by water carriage.
Intercommunication would at first appear to be difficult between the different parts of the country, but I take a different view of it. Stocks of all kinds thrive exceedingly well, and they will in consequence always abound in the Territory. The soil affords every advantage for the making of good roads, and in process of time transportation must be comparatively cheap.
Settlements.
They consist principally of those belonging to the Hudson Bay Co., and where the missionaries have established themselves. They are as follows: In the western section Fort Simpson, Fort McLaughlin, Fort Langley, Nisqually, Cowlitz, Fort George, Vancouver, and Umpqua; Fort St. James, Barbine, Alexandria, Chilcouten, Kamloops (on Thompson River), Okanogan, Colville, and Walla Walla in the middle; and in the eastern Kootenai and Fort Hall. Fort Boise has been abandoned, as has also Kaima, a missionary settlement on the Kooscooske.
These are all small settlements, consisting of a palisade or picket with bastions at their corners around the houses and stores of the company, sufficient to protect them against the Indians, but in no way to be considered as forts. A few Indians have lodges near them who are dependent on the fort for their food and employment.
These forts, being situated for the most part near the great fisheries, are frequented by the Indians, who bring their furs to trade for blankets, and so forth, at the same time they come to lay in their yearly supply of salmon. Vancouver is the principal depot from which all supplies are furnished and returns made. At Vancouver the village is separated from the fort and near the river. In addition to its being the depot of the Hudson Bay Co., there is now attached to it the largest farm of the Puget Sound Co., the stockholders in which are generally the officers and servants of the Hudson Bay Co. They have now farms in successful operation at Vancouver, Cowlitz, Nisqually, Colville, Fort Langley, and the Fualtine [Tualatin] Plains, about 10 miles from Vancouver, all of which are well stocked. They supply the Russian post at Sitka, under contract, with the variety of articles raised on them.
They have introduced large herds and flocks into the Territory from California, and during our stay there several thousands were imported. In this they are doing incalculable good to the Territory and rendering it more valuable to the future settlers; at the same time it exerts an influence in domesticating the Indians, not only by changing their habits, but food, and attaching them to a locality.
The Indians of this Territory are not a wandering race, as some have asserted, but change for food only, and each successive season will generally find them in their old haunts seeking it.
The settlements established by the missionaries are at the Willamette Falls and Valley; at Nisqually and Clatsop in the western section, and at The Dalles, Walla Walla, Lapwai, and Chimekaine on the Spokane in the middle.
Those of the middle section are succeeding well, and, although little progress has been made in the conversion of Indians to Christianity, yet they have done much good in reforming some of their vices and teaching them some of the useful arts, particularly that of agriculture, which has had the effect, in a measure, to attach them to the soil, construct better houses, exchanging their corn, and so forth, with those who hunt, for Buffalo meat.
The men now rear and tend their cattle, plant their corn and potatoes, and the squaws attend to their household and employ themselves in knitting and weaving, which they have been taught.
They raise on their small patches corn, potatoes, melons, and so forth, irrigating the land for that purpose. There are many villages of Indians still existing, though greatly reduced in number from former estimates. POPULATION.
It is extremely difficult to ascertain with accuracy the amount of population in the Territory, particularly of Indians, who change to their different abodes as the fishing seasons come around, and if [this fact were] not attended to would produce very erroneous results.
The following is believed to be very nearly the truth. If anything, it is overrated:
Vancouver and Washington Islands 5,000 From the parallel of 50 to 54 40' north 2,000 Penns Cove, Whidbeys Island, and mainland opposite (Scatchat) 650 Hoods Canal (Suquamish and Toando) 500 At and about Okanogan 300 About Colville, Spokane, etc 450 Willamette Falls and Valley 275 Pillar Rock, Oak Point, and Col. R 300 Clallams: Port Discovery 150 Port Townsend 70 New Dungeness 200 Walla Walla, including the Nezperces, Snakes, etc 1,100 Killamouks, north of Umpqua 400 Closset tribe: Cape Flattery, Quiniault, to Point Grenville 1,250 Blackfeet tribes that make excursions west of the Rocky Mountains 1,000 Birch Bay 300 Frazers River 500 Chenooks 209 Clatsops , 220 At the Cascades 150 At The Dalles 250 Yakima River 100 Shutes River 125 Umpquas 400 Rogue River 500 Klamets . 300 Shastys 500 Kalapuyas 600 Nisqually 200 Chikeeles and Puget Sound 700 Cowlitz Klackatacs 350 Port Orchard Suquamish 150 Total 19,204
The whole Oregon territory may be estimated as containing 20,000. Of whites, Canadians, and half-breeds there are between 700 and 800, of whom about 150 are Americans; the rest are settlers and the officers and servants of the company.
The Indians are rapidly decreasing in all parts of the country. The causes are supposed to be their rude treatment of diseases and the dissipated lives they lead.
The white American population, as far as I have been able to judge of them, are orderly, and some industrious, although they are, with the exception of the missionaries, men who have led for the most part dissolute lives.
The absence of spirits as long as it continues will probably secure them from other excesses. Very much to their credit, they have abandoned the use of spirituous liquors by consent of the whole community. I can not but view this territory as peculiarly liable to the vice of drunkenness. The ease with which the wants of man are obtained, the little labor required, and consequent opportunities of idleness will render it so. The settlers of the Willamette Valley have with a praiseworthy spirit engaged to prevent the establishment of distilleries, and there are yet no places where spirits can be bought, to my knowledge, in the territory.
It is highly creditable to the H. B. Co. that on a vessel arriving on the coast with spirits on board, in order to prevent its introduction they have purchased the whole, while at the same time their storehouses were filled with it. They have with praiseworthy zeal interdicted its being an article of trade, being well satisfied that it is contrary to their interests and demoralizing in its effects on all the tribes and people with whom they have to deal, rendering them difficult to manage, quarrelsome among themselves, and preventing their success in hunting.
Endeavors have likewise been made by the officers of the company to induce the Russians, on their side, to adopt their example and do away with it as an article of trade, but hitherto without success.
It no doubt has been one of the causes effecting the decrease of the native tribes, as it was formerly almost the only article of trade.
In the event of this territory being taken possession of, the necessity of circumscribing the use and sale of spirits can not REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 293 be too strongly insisted upon by legal enactment, both to pre- serve order and avoid expense. As far as the Indians have come under my notice, they are an inoffensive race, except perhaps those in the northern part ; but the depredations committed on the whites may be traced to injuries received or from superstitious motives. MISSIONARIES. Little has yet been effected by them in Christianizing the natives. They are principally engaged in the cultivation of the mission farms and in the care of their own stock, in order to obtain flocks and herds for themselves, most of them having selected lands. As far as my personal observation went, in the part of the country where the missionaries reside there are very few Indians, and they seem more occupied with the settlement of the country and in agricultural pursuits than missionary labors. When there, I made particular inquiries whether laws were necessary for their protection, and I feel fully satisfied that they require none at present. Besides the moral code it is their duty to inculcate, the Catholic portion of the settlement, who form a large majority of the inhabitants, are kept under con- trol by their priest, who is supposed to act in unison with the others in the proper punishment of all bad conduct. The boundary will next claim my attention. In a former report to the honorable Secretary of the Navy I stated that the boundary formerly proposed, viz, that of the 49 latitude, ought not to be adopted, and the following are my reasons for it, viz: First. That it affects the value of all that portion of the middle and eastern sections south of that parallel. Second. That it places the whole territory south of that parallel completely under the control and at the mercy of the nation who may possess the northern by giving the command of all the water and a free access into the heart of the terri- tory at any moment. 294 CHARLES WILKES Third. Giving up what must become one of the great high- ways into the interior of the territory altogether, viz, Erasers River. Fourth. And also, to all intents and purposes, possession of the fine island of Vancouver, thereby surrendering an equal right to navigate the waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and by its possession the whole command of the northern waters. Fifth. Giving rise to endless disputes and difficulties after the location of the boundary and in the execution of the laws after it is settled. Sixth. Affording and converting a portion of the territory which belongs to us into a resort and depot for a set of ma- rauders and their goods, who may be employed at any time in acting against the laws and to the great detriment of the peace not only of this territory but of our Western States by exciting and supplying the Indians on our borders. The boundary line on the 49 parallel would throw Frasers River without our territory, cut off and leave seven-eighths of the fine island of Vancouver in their possession, together with all the harbors, including those of Nootka, Clayoquot, and Niti- nat, which afford everything that could be desired as safe and good ports for naval establishment. They would not only com- mand the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the inlets and sounds leading from it, but place the whole at any moment under their control by enabling them to reach and penetrate to the heart of the territory with a comparatively small force and destroy it and lay it waste. The whole middle and part of the eastern section would be cut off from their supplies of timber by losing its northern part, from which it can only be supplied with an article of the first necessity both for fuel and building, rendering it dependent on a foreign state. We should also give up what may be considered a store- house of wealth in its forests, furs, and fisheries, containing an inexhaustible supply of the first and last of the best quality. Endless difficulties would be created in settling the boun- dary, for Great Britain must or does know that the outlet REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 295 from Frasers River by way of Johnstons Strait, between Van- couvers Island and the mainland, is not only difficult but dan- gerous to navigate from the rapidity of the currents and can not be made use of. She will, therefore, probably urge her claim to the southern line, say, the Columbia, as the boundary which they are desirous of holding, and are now doing all in their power to secure its permanent settlement through the Hudson Bay Co., and extending the laws by which she governs the Canadas over her own citizens settled in the territory ; and by the delays of our Government hope to obtain such a foot- hold as will make it impossible to set aside their sovereignty in it. This, as far as I was enabled to perceive, is evidently their intention, being extremely desirous to appear as the larger claimants of the territory and to assert their right to the soil to the north of the Columbia River. This boundary would subject the island of Vancouver to two sovereignties and, of course, their laws. It never could be sur- rendered by us without abandoning the great interest and safety of the territory. And it will be perceived how very prejudicial it would be if the British in possession of the north- ern section should establish free ports, and thus be enabled to counteract all our revenue laws, and so forth. The contract for supplies with the Russians now enables the Hudson Bay Co. to purchase the grain and produce from the Willamette settlers, but in a short time it will be supplied by themselves through their great farms, and consequently the produce of settlers can obtain no market whatever, all trade being in the hands of that company. The Puget Sound Co. are enabled to compete with and un- dersell all others from the low price of labor 17 per annum absence from duties, and the facilities of sending their products to market by the ships of the Hudson Bay Co., which hitherto have returned almost empty, the furs occupying but a small part of the vessel, which will hereafter be filled with hides and tallow; this must operate very prejudicially to the settlement and increase their hold on the territory. 296 CHARLES WILKES I have stated these views in order to show the necessity of prompt action on the part of the Government in taking posses- sion of the country in order to obviate difficulties that a longer delay will bring about and prevent many persons from settling advantageously. For the military occupation of the country I conceive that it would be necessary to establish a post at some central point, viz, Walla Walla, and I herewith inclose you a topographical sketch of the surrounding country within 30 miles. As respects its position with reference to the country, you will be well informed by the map. It appears to me to be peculiarly adapted to the general de- fense of the territory in order to preserve peace and quietness among the Indian tribes. The Nez Perces, Snakes, and Blackfeet are those generally engaged in committing depredations on each other and requir- ing more looking after than those of the other tribes. They are in and around this section of country. The facilities for maintaining a post and at a moderate ex- pense are great; the river abounds with salmon during a greater part of the year and the herds thrive exceedingly well. Cattle are numerous, particularly horses, which are the best that the country affords. Grains of all kind flourish, and at about 25 miles distant the missionaries have an establishment from which I have but little doubt the troops could be supplied. The climate is remarkably fine and healthy. There is, per- haps, no point from which operations could be carried on with so much facility to all parts of the territory as this, it being situated, as it were, at the forks of the two principal branches of the Columbia. Any number of horses could be kept at little or no expense, and a force could reach almost any part of the lower territory with the least possible delay. The permanent land force I conceive necessary to keep this territory quiet and peaceable would be one company of dra- goon? and one of infantry, say, 200 men. The only Indians of the country south of 49 who are dis- posed to make war upon the whites are the Klamets, residing REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 297 on the southern borders of the territory along Rogue and Klamet Rivers and in the passes of the Shasty Mountains. The show of a small force would, I am sure, have a good tendency in preventing their depredations on the whites who pass through the country, their hostility to whom, in a great measure, is to be ascribed to the conduct of the whites them- selves, who leave no opportunity unimproved of molesting them. Cases have frequently occurred of white men shooting a poor, defenseless Indian without any provocation whatever. A friendly disposition, with sufficient force to prevent any attack, could not fail to bring about the desired disposition on their parts. The country they inhabit is a very rich one and would afford all the necessaries as well as the comforts of life. A steamer having a light draft of water, a small fort on Cape Disappointment, and a few guns on Point Adams to de- fend the south channel with its dangerous bar, would be all sufficient for the defense of Columbia River. Some points within the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, or Puget Sound might be settled, where supplies, and so forth, could be had and depots established. Two Government steamers would be able to protect our trade and territory and prevent disturbances among the northern tribes; they would be a more efficient force than stationary forts, and much more economical. In case of difficulties, steamers would be enabled to reach any part of the coast from these points in two days. In the event of hostilities in this country, the posts, so called, of the Hudson Bay Co. are not to be considered of strength against any force but Indians; they are mere stockades, and all their buildings, granaries, and so forth, are situated without the palisades. They could offer but little resistence to any kind of armed force and their supplies could readily be cut off, both by sea and land. The occupation of the mouth of the Columbia River, togeth- er with some point in the Strait of Juan de Fuca or the waters 298 * CHARLES WILKES and sounds leading from it, I view as highly necessary in any event, and there is no force so well adapted for the security of this territory as that of steamers. The waters of Puget Sound might be effectually defended from a naval force by occupying the narrows leading to it through which vessels must enter; at all times a dangerous narrow path, with strong current, no anchorage, and the winds almost always variable. I refer you to the charts which show this point distinctly. Much has been said of the effective force of the Hudson Bay Co. ; this, in my opinion, is an entire mistake and exaggeration of it. It is true that the servants of the company are bound to bear arms during their term of servitude, but they are without any sort of discipline, few in number, generally of the class of farm- ers, worn-out Canadians, some few Iroquois Indians, and other tribes from the Canadas, and illy adapted to bear arms ; about 100 at all the posts could be raised. With regard to the natives, they are so distributed in small tribes that I am confident they would only be looked to as scouts and messengers, and those of the northern tribe would be too unruly to meddle with. I am decidedly of opinion that the company would do every- thing to avoid the territory becoming a scene of war, particu- larly its officers. They are now for the most part bound up with its peaceful occupation, being largely engaged in agriculture and grazing, which must all in a measure be sacrificed. And there would also be great difficulty, if not a total interruption, in their carrying on their fur trade. It is not very probable that they would make any very strenuous endeavors to retain their interests under the British authority, as they well know that they may come in for the preservation of their property under the preemption right by transferring it to citizens of the United States, some of whom are well known to be interested and active partners in the busi- ness. REPORT ON OREGON TERRITORY 299 There are four passes through the Rocky Mountains. The one known as McGillivarys Pass, by the Committee's Punch Bowl is very difficult, and can only be used during the sum- mer months, at which time the parties of the Hudson Bay Co. pursue this route. Proceeding south we come to the great district through which Lewis and Clark found their way; and, finally, the two southern routes, which are preferable, susceptible of being used at almost all seasons, and a good wagon road may be con- structed with little expense. This leads to the first post of the Hudson Bay Co., viz, Fort Hall, established by Capt. Wyeth, and has since been trans- ferred to the company, so that it is readily to be perceived that the difficulties of communication with the territory are far less for us than the British. I can not close this report without doing justice to the officers of the Hudson Bay Co.'s service for their kind and gentle- manly treatment to us whilst in the territory, and to bear tes- timony that during all my intercourse with them they seemed to be guided by one rule of conduct, highly creditable to them not only as men of business but to their feelings as gentlemen. They afforded us every assistance that lay in their power, both in supplies and means of accomplishing our duties. There are many persons in the country who bear testimony to the aid and kindness rendered to them in their outset, and of their hospitality it is needless to speak, for it has become proverbial. To conclude, few portions of the globe, in my opinion, are to be found so rich in soil, diversified in surface, or capable of being rendered the happy abode of an industrious and civilized community. For beauty of scenery and salubrity of climate it is not surpassed. It is peculiarly adapted for an agricultural and pastoral people, and no portion of the world beyond the Tropics is to be found that will yield so readily to the wants of man with moderate labor. Respectfully submitted, CHARLES WILKES, Commanding Exploring Expedition.