Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 13/"Documents": Journal of John Work, Covering Snake Country Expedition of 1830-31, and others

DOCUMENTS

JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK, COVERING SNAKE COUNTRY EXPEDITION OF 1830-31.

(Printed from copy made by Mias Agnes C. Laut in 1905 from the original in the Hudson's Bay Company's House, London, England)

EDITORIAL NOTES BY T. C. ELLIOTT.

INTRODUCTION

Readers of the Quarterly will recall the publication of the Journals of Peter Skene Ogden in Volumes 10 and 11, record- ing the explorations and fur trapping experiences of that ener- getic H. B. Co. fur trader in Oregon, Idaho, Utah and Nevada between the Cascade Mountains and the main range of the Rockies during the years 1825 to 1829 inclusive.

There is abundant indirect evidence that in the late summer of 1829, Mr. Ogden led his company of trappers to the south- ward from Fort Walla Walla, through Eastern Oregon and along the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Range and into Southern California, and that merely a detached party visited the Snake Country of Southern Idaho. But there is no record available and it is necessary to pass by the experiences of that year's journey with the hope that the original journal will be found at some future time. Upon the return of Mr. Ogden in the early summer of 1830 it was found that by orders from Gov. Simpson he had been transferred to the trade along the Coast in company with Mr. Finlayson, and the command of the Snake Country Brigade had been assigned to Mr. John Work, a very worthy successor. Mr. Work was of Irish descent and his name is properly spelled Wark. In this Quarterly (Vol. 10, page 296 et seq.), has already appeared an account of a journey made by him in the spring of 1830 from Fort Colvile to Fort Vancouver and a brief mention of his career.

Mr. Work's journals for at least two expeditions are avail- able for use in this Quarterly, and that for only the first part of the expedition of 1830-31 is now given. This is another of 364 JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK the transcripts made by Miss Agnes C. Laut from the original in the Hudson's Bay Company's House in London; it (the transcript) is now a part of the Ayers Collection in the New- berry Library of Chicago, and through the courtesy of that Library this copy has been obtained. The track of Mr. Work's party in 1830 follows very closely that of Mr. Ogden in the Fall of 1827, for which compare with Vol. II, page 355 et seq., of this Quarterly. From Fort Walla Walla, at the mouth of the Walla Walla River, across the Blue Mountain range and through the valleys of the Grand Ronde, Powder and Burnt Rivers to the Snake River at Hunt- ington and on to the mouth of the Payette River it follows very nearly the scientifically recorded journey of John C. Fremont in 1843. Thence Mr. Work followed up the Payette River for two days, crossed over to the Boise River and from the sources of one of the forks of that river over to the Camas Plains and the waters of the Malade River in Southern Idaho. He then visited in turn the branches of that river and of the Lost River and proceeded across the lava bed plateau to the Blackfoot and the Portneuf Rivers. Evidently the intent was to trap pretty thoroughly the very sources of the various streams already named. It is of interest to recall that the year 1830 found in the camps of the American trappers in the Snake country some of the "mountain men" who afterward took an active part in the early government of Oregon, namely, Joseph L. Meek, Doc. Robt. Newell, Joseph Gale and others. August 1830. Sunday 22. On the 15th the Snake Trappers whom I am appointed to take charge of reached Fort Nez Perces 1 from Fort Vancouver with their supplies. The following days were occupied arranging about horses. On the 20th they moved off from the fort. I remained two days to arrange papers and accounts to write letters and this morning followed and came up with camp near the foot of the Blue Mountains on a branch 2 1 Fort Nez Perce is the original Northwest Company's name for the trading post erected by them in the summer of 1818 and later known as Fort Walla Walla; for description of the building of the Fort, consult Alex. Ross's "Fur Hunters of the Far West." 2 This branch stream was probably Pine Creek, which empties into the Walla Walla River at the town of Touchet, sixteen miles east of Fort Walla Walla; the horses belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company were herded on what is still known as the Hudson s Bay ranch on this creek. DOCUMENTS 365 of the Walla Walla. I reckon the distance 24 miles E. S.-E. The party consists of 37 men, 4 hired servants, a slave, 3 2 youths, in all 40 able to bear arms and armed, and 29 women and 45 children (22 boys, 23 girls), a total of 114 souls. These are provided with 21 lodges to shelter them, 272 horses and mules, 337 traps. The horses are pretty well loaded with pro- visions, as the journey lies through a country where animals are scarce. In the above party are 26 Canadians, 2 Americans, 6 half-breeds from east of the mountains, 2 Iroquois, 1 Nip- pesing. Monday, 23 Aug. Sultry weather. Moved 8 miles E. S.-E. to the foot of the mountains, where we encamped 4 on a small branch of the Walla Walla. Our journey is to last a twelve- month, and we must take care of our horses at the beginning. Tuesday, 24 Aug. Early on the move and camped in 5 hours east of the summit of the mountains. Four Cayuse Indians going to the buffalo hunt joined us. They have no women, but one of them has a slave girl who followed him and was sent back twice ; but today again came up. On her refusing to return, he shot her, the ball wounding 3 places, but not mortally. This is the way of treating disobedience. I made him to understand that the whites did not suffer such occur- rences among them. Thursday 26th. Encamped at entrance 5 of Grand Ronde River. All hands employed getting lodge poles to pass the plains. Monday 30th. Proceeded to Powder River through a fine valley. Thursday, 2 Sept. Proceeded to Burnt River. Kanota killed 2 antelope. Dupard & Pritchett took 5 beaver. 3 Not a "gentleman of color" from the South, but a captive from some other tribe and usually designated as such by having his hair cut short. This slave gave a good account of himself before his death soon after, as will be seen a little further on. 4 Probably near either Blue Mountain Station on Dry Creek or the town of Weston on Pine Creek, both in Umatilla County, Oregon; from this place they crossed the Blue Mountain divide the following day. 5 This is at Summerville, Union County, Oregon, formerly known as Indian Valley: after four days here they passed through the Grande Ronde Valley and over the divide to Powder River. 366 JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK Sunday, 5 Sept. Proceeded to Snake River, 6 here about 200 yards wide. Tuesday, 7 Sept. Alex Carson who is to take charge of 5 men, Depat, Cloustine, Sanders, Turner & Jean Ba'tiste, crossed the river northward to hunt the Wazer7 and Payette's Rivers and cross the waters to some of the branches of Salmon River. A party was sent last year but too late to cross the waters they did not do well. These are to be at Nez Perces (Fort) the 10th of July (next). This reduces us 6 men, 4 women, 30 horses. We are still strong enough to oppose the Blackfeet. Thursday 9th. Reached the discharge of Payette's River up which we proceeded. Payette found a horse here among the Snakes stolen 3 yrs. ago. The Indian pleaded he had traded it, but got from Payette only a knife. Saturday llth. Marched S. E. from Payette's River to Reid's River 8 to the south flat, to the north mountains. Monday, 13 Sept. Cut across to Sickly River ;9 here we encamped. Thursday 16th. Pritchett's wife in labor we did not move camp. Kanota & Etang returned with 7 beaver. The woman delivered of a boy. Sunday 19. Reached Little Camas Plain. 10 . Saturday, 25 Sept. Fine weather : encamped near the moun- tains. The people all out in different directions hunting. At 8 p. m., about an hour and a half after we encamped, one of the men, Thomas Tanateau, came running to the camp afoot almost out of his senses with fear and related that as he P. L, Etang, Baptiste Tyagnainto & L. Kanote's slave were going to their traps on the upper part of the stream in the mountain, they were set upon by a war party of Blackfeet and his three companions killed on the spot, that he barely escaped. 6 Huntington, Oregon, having come by way of Powder River and Burnt River. 7 The Weiser River in Idaho; called the Wazer by Arrowsmith. 8 The Boise River, known as Reed's River after John Reed of the Astor party who started a trading post at its mouth. 9 The Malade, or Wood River of present maps; but the party can hardly have reached it yet. 10 Not far northeast but across the ridge from Mountain Home on the Oregon Short Line Ry. DOCUMENTS 367 Five of my men were in camp. Some soon arrived & we put ourselves in a state of defence and made pens for our horses. The men scanned the hills in vain for the enemy. Three Cayuse Indians with us found poor L'Etang and the slave mur- dered, stripped and the latter scalped. Baptiste was still alive. They brought him to camp through the dark. He is wounded but not dangerously and gives the following account of the melancholy occurrence. The four were ascending a steep hill afoot leading their horses and not paying attention to the sides of the road when Indians started up from the long grass and fired then rushed and seized him but not before he discharged his gun and killed one. He called on the slave to fire when the Indians rushed upon the latter and killed him. In the interim Baptiste ran to cover in a tuft of willows where he hid till the Cayuse found him, gun powder horn and shot pouch were torn from him. L'Etang made no defence. The slave killed one when he fired and it was his struggle enabled B to escape. ^Thomas was not wounded. His pursuers were near taking him but heard Kanota's rifle fired at a deer. The Indians made off without taking time to mangle the bodies as they are wont to do scalping only the slave. The enemy consisted of 20 men their motive to get horses and arms. Another man, F. Cham- paign had a narrow escape. They stole 3 of his traps. These men risked (?) themselves but the Snakes being ahead, it was thought the Blackft would hang on the rear. Payette and 12 men interred our unfortunate companions. 4 men arrived from Reid's River with 27 beaver ; 42 beaver this day from our own river. Sold L'Etang's property by auction. Tuesday 28. Encamped on Sickly River where it received the Camas Plain River." Country rugged and barren. Black- feet tracks are observed prowling about camp. Saturday, 2 Oct. Marched N by E to Muskeg Swamp where the N. fork of Sickly River has its source. 12 A party of Snakes 1 1 years ago took 300 beaver in 2 encampments here. Few beaver are here now driven by fire & destroyed by some 11 At the hot springs about eight miles west of Stanton in Elaine County, Idaho; present site of Magic Reservoir of U. S. Reclamation Service. 12 The North Fork of the Malade would be the Little Wood River of today. 368 JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK sickness for there is no sign of recent hunting here. Little but reeds growing. The beaver feed on the roots. Whether this causes the sickening quality of the flesh or the roots, several of the people are sick from eating the beaver. Hem- lock is also found the roots of which cause the flesh to be poisonous. 13 Sunday, 10 Oct. One of the men who went up the river brought back news he had met a party of 20 American hunters just arrived from Snake River across the plains. They had been 2 days without water. One of them an Iroquois called Pierre, 14 who deserted from us came to our camp; but little news was obtained from him. Americans are encamped within a short distance of us. Tuesday, 12 Oct. Left Sickly River and struck across the plain to a small rivulet that bears Bevens' name. Eastward lie the plains 1 s towards Snake River. Our object is to search Salmon River. There are 2 roads of the same length the north branch of Sickly River and the one we take by Goddin's River, 16 preferable because level and leading sooner to the buffalo for provisions, the people being out of food. Moreover the Americans may not follow us by this road not knowing our route. Their horses are (s)low but they have no families or lodges and little baggage to embarrass them wh. gives them an advantage over us. The Americans raised camp be- fore us and proceeded up the river, but on seeing us strike across the plain they left the river and followed along the foot of the mountains and encamped behind where Payette and party were defeated by the Blackfeet 2 yrs. ago. I did not see a Mr. Rabides who is at the head of the party but it appears they are 200 men, 100 hunters. Crooks & Co. are the out- fitters. A Mr. Fontenelle 1 ? who manages this business is now 13 The Malade was so named by Donald Mackenzie because his men were made sick by eating beaver there; Alex. Ross reports a similar experience and now John Work adds his testimony and explanation. 14 Evidently the same Pierre who gave Alex. Ross so much trouble in 1825 in the Bitter Root Valley. 1 5 The dry lava bed plateau of central southern Idaho, beneath which the mountain streams flow to Snake River. i6Arrowsmith shows this name of the Big Lost River and Day's River or Day's Defile would be the Little Lost River of today. 17 Consult Chittenden's Hist, of Amer. Fur Trade. A trapper named Robidoux is mentioned; also Lucien Fontenelle. Both were with the American Fur Company of the Missouri River, with which Ramsay Crooks of Astor Company fame was connected. DOCUMENTS 369 at Snake River with 50 men. They have great quantity of goods en cache. They have been hunting on the Upper Snake. They were set upon by the Blackfeet on Yellowstone River and 18 men killed. They had intended to go to the Flatheads this fall but were deterred by the advanced season. Thursday, 14 Oct. A. (?) Plante, M. Plante, P. Findlay, & Payette killed each a buffalo. Are now in a barren country covered with wormwood. Wednsy. 20. Reach what is called the Fountain & a swamp where Goddin's River has its source. A road here thro' the mountains to Days' Defile : A road also from the south. Buf- falo are numerous but the Banock Snakes have driven off the elk. Saturday 23rd. The women availed themselves of the hot springs to wash their clothes. Tuesday, 2nd Nov. Camped near head of Day's River. Three years ago a party of freemen wintered here with Mr. McKay 18 we met 2 Flatheads. Their camp is 6 days' march off, very strong, Flatheads, Pendant d'Oreilles and Spokanes with Nez Perces being together. Saturday, 6 Nov. The two Flatheads left to-day. I wrote by them to Mr. C. F. McLoughlin apprising him of our route. Tuesday, 23rd Nov. A party of Freemen under Mr. Ogden passed the winter here some years ago. There was neither ice nor snow in the valley then. Sunday, 28 Nov. Stormy cold weather snow showers (?) and drifting. Crossed the height of land 12 miles S. E. The snow 2 ft. deep. The horses are jaded. People are fatigued. Large herds of buffalo are about. Wednesday, Dec. 1. Proceeded to the entrance of Day's Defile. 1 ? Six of the men, August Finlay at the head of the party, O. Finlay, M. Finlay, A. Hoole ( ?). A. Plante and Bte Gardipie separated from camp and took the road round the 18 Consult Mr. Ogden's journal for winter of 1828 when he was so anxious about this Thos. McKay party; the latter was son-in-law of Chief Factor John McLoughlin at Fort Vancouver. 19 Where the river canyon opens upon the plain, which they crossed a few days later in about the line of branch line of Oregon Short Line of today to the Blackfoot Mountains east of the Snake River and City of Blackfoot. 370 JOURNAL OF JOHN WORK end of the mountain. These men are all half Indians. The two roads meet at the end of a few day's march, the road thro the pass is hilly, and uneven (depth) of snow 2 ft. Horses gave out on the way. Excellent feeding at camp half way. Herds of buffalo observed in the valley. Dec. 9, Thursday. Crossed plains to a dry branch of God- din's River. Friday 17th. Arrived ( ? ) of Snake River lower end of Blackfoot Hill. Found good feeding for horses and a great many Snakes are encamped around. Loss of horses alto- gether crossing plains 26. Cold caused the loss. The Ameri- cans hunted this quarter summer and fall. Lately a party of them crossed the mountains to White River to winter. We found poor L'Etang's rifle among the Snakes, picked up in bushes where Blackfeet had camped. Tuesday, 21 Dec. Clear and cold. Large party of Snakes paid us a visit on horseback as a mark of friendship passed 3 times round our camp firing volleys. They were well armed and wore the scalps and mangled remains of the 2 Blckft whom they killed 2 days ago suspended from their horses' bridles. January, 1831. New Year's day. None of the people went hunting. They endeavored to regale themselves. Each man was treated with a dram of rum and some cakes. 2nd Sunday. Foggy late last night 16 Flathds and Nez P came from the American camp 20 at White River on the E. side of the waters. They are afoot. Have been 10 days on the journey. They sold their horses to the Americans at high prices and now wear blankets of blue green and white besides having guns, rifles and beads. The Americans are to come this way in spring to form a post among the Flatheads. The Americans have 2 parties 6 chiefs and a great many men. March, Thursday 17. Cloudy rain cold. The Snakes are 20 Probably this refers to the vicinity of Ft. Bridger on a branch of Green River and to the trappers of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the partnership of Fitzpatrick, Jackson and Sublette. This was the company with which Meek, Newell and Gale were associated. Arrowsmith shows a White Mud River, which would be our Bear River. DOCUMENTS 371 moving off down the river. The chief the Horn 21 and a few old men paid us a visit. Friday 18. Moved camp across the plain to Portneuf ( ?) River. (The rest of this continued to another volume). LETTERS OF REVEREND H. H. SPALDING AND MRS. SPALDING, WRITTEN SHORTLY AFTER COMPLETING THEIR TRIP ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 22 FORT WALLA WALLA. Colubia River, Oct. 2, 1836. To Brothers Wm. & Edward Porter & their wives : Very Dear Brothers and Sisters It gives me great pleasure that I am permitted to say, the Lord has brought us safely through our long, doubtful jour- ney ; and that our eyes have actually seen the long, long, long- vvished-for Walla Walla, the end of our journey of 4100 miles. By the blessing of God, we arrived here on the 3rd of Sep., seven months and three days from the time myself and wife, left her father's house, a clay that will I think be long remem- bered by us ; a day may I not ask, that will be set apart by that little band at least of dear friends : (oh my soul, shall I never see them again!) assembled in that sacred room on the day of our departure, as a day of prayer and thanksgiving to that God, who has sustained, and finally brought to completion, the hazardous expedition undertaken by the missionaries of the Board. I cannot realize that I have crossed the Rocky mountains since the morning I drove sorrowfully out of Prattsburgh, and am now actually on the banks of the terrible Columbus, but it is really so. I have already been paid a thousand fold by what my eyes have seen, and all America with her gold and happiness could not purchase a place for me in the states, if I must leave these poor heathen standing thick around, pleading with their own tongues, actually, for 21 Probably the same chief named The Horse in Mr. Ogden's journal. 22 This letter was secured through the late Prof. R. K. Warren, of Portland, a native of Bath, New York, about eighteen years ago. George H. Himes, Assistant Secretary Oregon Historical Society. 372 SPALDING LETTERS the bread of eternal life, unpitied. Call my anxiety that I coldly expressed for the poor heathen when in the states, enthusiasm, madness or any other name which closed up the pulpit in my beloved Seminary against me as I passed last spring, and gave occasion for my beloved father in theology and one of the professors to absent themselves from the cele- bration of our departure, held in the Cong. Church of Cincin- natti; the snowbanks of the Rocky mountains did not kill it, the hot blasts of the sandy desert did not wilt it, but the actual sight of what fancy only pictured before, told me in voice of thunder, I had not pleaded the cause of the heathen, only attempted it. Oh that our churches at home could see and feel what their missionaries witness every day on heathen ground ! There would be a very different story told in their pulpits, and a very different one told on their treasurer's books. For particulars respecting the journey I must refer you to my letter to Mr. Green, if published, which occupies four or five sheets and consequently cannot be written over to every individual friend. I will however give a brief sketch, and first, you will please connect the following points with a line on some map which will give our route, very nearly. From Liberty, Mo., 300 miles above St. Louis, up the south side of Missouri river to mouth of Platte, Lat. 41 degrees, longitude 95 degrees, up the north side of Platte to the forks Lat. 41 degrees, Long. 102 degrees up the north fork to Ft. William of N. F. Co., foot of the mountains, Lat. 41 degrees 50 minutes, Long. 106 degrees, 40 minutes. This fort has been built three or four years, raises grain, and have fine cattle. Up the west branch still, till a few days of rendezvous, a place appointed this year on Green river, a branch of the Colorado, to meet all the trappers perhaps 300 of the Co., in the mountains ; also the Indians that came to trade. Then about 42 degrees, 56 minutes, Long. 110 degrees, 5 minutes, S. W. into the borders of Mexico onto the waters of Timpanagos or Salt Lake, so called from its depositing great quantities of salt, Lat. 41 de- grees, 50 minutes, Long. Ill degrees, 25 minutes, south of this lake. I have just learned there is a fine country of land, well DOCUMENTS 373 timbered with pine, oak, and what is unknown so far as I have been able to learn in any other part of the mountains, sugar tree. No winter, grass green through the year, Utaws and Navihoes in the vicinity, wild Indians, no man safe among them. Navi- hoes raise great quantities of grain, cattle, sheep, etc., and make their own clothing, and have their own religion, reject the Cath- olics of California, could be reached without doubt by any other religion. Who will go ? Thence west to Fort Hall, on Snake or Lewis river, Lat. 42 degrees, 13 minutes, Long. 113 degrees. This fort was built in 1834 by Capt. Whyeth of Boston, who came that year into the country to engage in the fur trade and with whom the missionaries Lees came. No female accompanied them. Here turnips have been raised but too frosty for farm- ing. Some timber on a small spot and apparently several thous- and acres of good soil. This is a dangerous situation, in the vicinity of the Black Feet, a blood-thirsty Indian tribe, fre- quently at the gates of the fort, have destroyed many lives and stolen hundreds of horses. From this fort, north of west down Snake river, to Snake Fort at the junction of Wood and Snake rivers, Lat. 44 degrees 10 minutes, Long. 116 degrees 20 minutes, called Wood river from its having a little timber on it, a species of poplar called cotton wood, found abundant in the western states, and the only timber except a little pine sometimes on the mountains, found whenever any is found in the mountains. This fort was built last year by the Hudson Bay Co., where 16 years ago a fort, and all the men except one were cut up. On Wood river there is considerable land not subject to frosts, a favorable situation for settlement, the first we met with from fort W., a distance of 1050 miles. This is a safe country ; Indians friendly. Snakes and Bonnocks. From this fort northwest to Walla Walla, at the junction of Colum- bia and Walla Walla rivers Lat. 40 degrees 10 minutes Long. 119 degrees 15 minutes. This fort was built 19 years ago by the Hudson Bay Co. Much good land up the Walla Walla river some 50 miles; timber plenty near the mountains, some 90 or 100 miles ; none within 60 miles of the fort, except flood wood down the Columbia ; fertile spots of 5 or 20 acres within 374 SPALDING LETTERS 16 or 18 miles. Abundance of corn, potatoes, peas, garden vegetables, cattle, hogs &c., raised here. Natives very friendly, formerly very dangerous cannibals, one man perfectly safe among them anywhere now. Cheyooses 2 ^ [sic] and Walla Walla speaks the Nez Perces language; one of us will probably settle on the W. river. About six days to Walla mountains, the valleys became covered with a short fine bunch grass, evi- dently a very strong species of grass, from the fact that cattle and horses grow very fat on it, summer or winter. Our cattle were in good flesh when they ended their long journey. They are now good beef. The cattle and horses of this country ex- ceed for fatness, anything I ever saw in the states. This grass extends for hundreds of miles around. The Walla Walla country is consequently good for herding. The system of the Hudson Bay Co. forbids them to sell cattle to any person, even their own traders or clerks. They will lend to any extent, none killed. In this way, the country is fast filling up with cattle. However, a few have been killed this year at Vancouvers, and Dr. McLoughlin has ordered Mr. Pembran 2 3 a to kill one fat ox at this fort we are to have half of it. There are at Vancou- ver, 700 head of cattle ; from 20 to 100 at several other posts. Three days after arriving at this fort we started on a visit to Vancouver, 300 miles; went down the Columbia in a boat pro- pelled by six oarsmen, were detained two days by head winds, and reached Vancouver the seventh day. We were very kindly received by Dr. McLoughlin the chief factor in Colum- bia. We were much disappointed at the abundance of neces- saries and comforts of life here to be obtained, and cheaper than in the city of New York, from the fact that all goods come to this country free of duties. Two ships from London this year heavily ladened with goods. Two now in port, one from the Sandwich Islands : both sent this fall. Two more expected soon from the coast. The company have also a steamboat for the coast. The farm at Vancouver produced 4,000 bushels of wheat and other grains except corn, in proportion. The Dr. has a beautiful garden of about 15 acres, containing all 23 Cayuses. 233 Mr. Pambrun, DOCUMENTS 375 manner of fruit. As soon as we get a location, we shall, Provi- dence permitting, supply ourselves with fruit trees. I will name some: Apple, peach, plum, cherry, grape, prunes, etc. We left our wives at Vancouver till we find a location and build, as they can be better accommodated there than in this place. Two white women arrived at Vancouver before them. The farmer's wife in the spring and the Rev. Mr. Beaver's wife in the ship just arrived. We remained at Vancouver a week, returned in 12 days with the boat heavy laden with sup- plies for us, such as flour, pork, butter, tallow, salt, farming utensils, Indian goods, etc., etc. The Columbia is the most frightful river I ever saw navigated by any craft. The Cas- kades or rapids, about 100 miles from Vancouver and 200 miles from the ocean, it is easy passed with any craft from there to the mountains, a distance of 700 miles it is a swift current, frequent rapids, three or four compressed channels and one or two falls I believe there are six in the whole river, three between this and Vancouver. Portages are made of property, one of boat and property carried by 50 or 100 Indians for a small piece of tobacco. Tide sets up 50 miles above Vancouver. Probably a larger quantity of water must flow than in the Mississippi, but it is frequently pressed into a channel of ten rods. Many lives are lost in this river. None but Canadians and Indians would ever think of navigating this terrible Columbia. Last night we had a little shower of rain, the first drop in this region since the first of May and the first we have experienced since the 24th of June as we were entering the mountains. Air is very pure and healthy. I think this the healthiest country in the world. Rain is plentiful in Columbia in the winter season; water in this country is most delicious. We have become so attached to our mode of living as to prefer a lodging in the open air to indoors. The atmosphere at night is exhilarating. Have just returned from exploring the Walla Walla river. Doct. W. has found an excellent strip of land ; timber sufficient in 25 miles instead of 50; rich soil extends for about 12 miles in length; beneath [beyond?] on the mountains in about four 376 SPALDING LETTERS miles of this building spot is the greatest country I've seen yet. His location is about east of this. Brother Gray and the men will go to building immediately. Doct. W. and myself expect, God willing, to go into the Nez Perces country on the 9th. Several Nez Perces have arrived to conduct us to their country. My beloved chief, spoken of in several letters, who came out to meet Mr. Parker, Dr. Whitman and myself, and who has stuck by us from the beginning, I think will be here tomorrow. The Nez Perces are certainly the handsomest In- dians I ever saw, the most friendly, a most likely of the red men and live better than any other tribes on this side of the mountain. The Cheyoos among whom Doctor_has settled, next ; the Walla Walla's next. All these speak the Nez Perces lan- guage. But as we pressed west the Indians became more wretched and filthy. The women have a small covering about the loins, the men are entirely naked, with no appearance of shame. You may frequently see four or five hunting in each other's herd [heads] and eating the prey. They were formerly in the habit of shooting all the horses of a chief over his grave. I saw a large pile of horse bones the other day in such a place. This custom the Hudson Bay. Co. have broken up. It was once the custom, if a mother died at any time within six weeks after the birth of a child, to bury the living child with the mother. This custom was also broken up by the Company. There has been no case until now for five years. A Walla Walla woman died soon after the birth of a child. The father gave a horse for another woman to nurse the child; three days after, the father of the mother, took the child and buried it alive with its mother. The father of the child takes it very hard. The women of this country are great gamblers; six or eight of them will frequently stake property, especially among the Nez Perces, to the amount of $500.00 mostly ornaments. Let me tell the dear Christian ladies who lay out the Lord's money to appear fine, could they see a Nez Perces woman with herself and house [horse] equipped, pass through one of their cities, they would go to their drawing room, take down their sham trappings and cast them into the fire, as not worth noticDOCUMENTS 377 ing in comparison with the splendid equipage of a Nez Perces lady and her milk-white steed. You will hardly believe when I tell you, that Mr. Pambra [Pambrun] who has done so much to forward our object, spending more than a month in traveling with us, and has been with us to look at a location, and says he will do every- thing in his power to help us, and wishes us to take his children to bring up, is a Roman Catholic. Tell your dear children all, I remember them. Have seen 5000 Buffalo at once probably. Hope they will all become missionaries. Letters or a box of good clothing can come to us by way of the Sandwich Islands. Direct, postpaid to Rev. David Green, Boston, to Doct. McLoughlin, chief actor of the H. B. Co., Vancouver. Tell Mr. and Mrs. Bridges I am much pleased with their new relation. I supposed Miss Hop- kins was to marry Mr. Bull, till I received your letters. Get all the good friends in P. to write six sheets in one letter to me. Give my love to your dear father and all friends in P. H. H. SPALDING. P. S. Oct. 20, Vancouver. God has brought me back to this place. Since I left Utica, I have traveled 5,300 and my wife 4,900 miles ; we have yet to travel 425 to end our wander- ings. The Lord directed us to a favorable location, among the Nez Perces, 125 miles east of Walla Walla, and 12 east of Lewis river on a river putting in from the north called Koos- koos. The Nez Perces are much rejoiced that I have found a place. They say, "only let us know what you want, and it shall be done at once." They are to meet me at Walla Walla, the 15th of November to take all my effects to their country. In the meantime, God willing and assisting, I expect to take a boat load of supplies with the hands up the river while Doct. W. remains to prepare his house. 378 SPALDING LETTERS Mrs. Spalding writes in fhe same letter to Mrs. O. and C. Porter : Dear Sisters : Allow me the privilege of addressing you a few lines through the medium of Mr. Spalding's letter, which after reading what he has written respecting the state of my health during the greater part of our journey you doubtless will receive not only as the voice of one from the far West but of one from another world. But bless the Lord with me, dear sisters, for His preserving mercy which has brought our little company through that long and hazardous journey in good health and under favorable circumstances in every respect. Mrs. Whitman and myself have spent our time since the 12th of September at Vancouver in the family of Dr. McLoughlin where we have been favored with all the attentions and luxuries of life desir- able. The principal exercise our situation here affords us is walking in the garden, to which place we frequently resort to feast on apples and grapes, and riding occasionally on horse- back. The riding-horses here are high-spirited, trained to gallop, and a ride of ten or fifteen miles is performed in a very short time. You may think us adepts at performing on horse- back after the experience our late journey has afforded us. I was thrown from my horse twice in consequence of his taking fright and becoming unmanageable, [sic] but received no seri- ous injury. I have been wonderfully and I sometimes almost think miraculously preserved and brought through a journey I often thought I could not survive. Surely the mercies of the journey demand our consumate [sic] gratitude. I long to exchange my present comfortable situation for one among the poor Nez Perces where I can spend the strength which I have wholly regained in laboring to benefit them. I did not leave my friends and all I hold dear and valuable in my native country to reap the comforts and luxuries of life in a land of strangers. No, I trust the only object I had in view in coming to this heathen land was to labor for the temporal and spiritual good of those whose minds are enshrouded in heathen darkness. I long to see their precious souls enlightened and interested in the blessDOCUMENTS 379 ings of that gospel which brings life and immortality to light. Remember and pray for us that we may labor successfully for the promotion of our Master's cause in this heathen land. A few words to the little folks. Tell them we often think how happy they must be to have kind parents to take care of them, give them good food and clothes and books and send them to school where they can learn much that will be very useful to them. We have seen a great many Indian children who have no clothes and never have bread or anything very good to eat. They sometimes get a little meat but when they have no meat they eat roots, grass, seeds, crickets and a great many bad things. They are very poor children and know nothing about God. Dear children, is not your condition a happy one indeed ? Affectionately, MRS. SPALDING. LETTER BY JAMES W. NESMITH TO FRIENDS IN THE EAST. Oregon City, Willamette Falls, O. T. 27th June, 1845. My Dear Friends : As Dr. White is on the eve of starting with a small party for the United States, I avail myself of the opportunity to return you my most sincere thanks for your long and affectionate letter bearing date 15th of March, 1844, which was gratefully received on the 5th of December of the same year. I have read it until it is completely and entirely worn out ; the fragments I have carefully deposited in my desk and frequently refer to them as the only reward for the innumerable and lengthy letters written by me for the last four or five years. I console myself with the hope that you may do better for the future. It was gratifying to me to hear that you were all in the enjoyment of health and prosperity for the continuation of which you have my best wishes. 380 JAMES W. NESMITH Well Cozs Theophilus arfd Jane are married this is no more than I expected to hear. I wish them all the joy imaginable together with a dozen pledges of affection. I suppose that I may never expect to see a line from either of them again, as the objects which await their attention at present is of more interest than a wandering cousin. If Aunt Peggy, Sally, Harriet and Jessie had all formed similar connections, I suppose that I might have waited for a letter until the year nineteen hundred and a long time to come. As for David, he never would condescend to correspond with me, and Miss Margaret and Joseph 2 * seem to partake of the same disposition. Uncle and Aunt would be excusable for not writing if they would only make the others do it. Harriet expresses a wish that I should bring her some 'curiosities when I return. I can only give her the assurance that I have a large quantity of them collected, but the period of my return depends very much upon circumstances. This likely leads you to make the injury of what I am about. You will laugh heartily at the answer ; however, you shall have it, since I am confident that your critical remarks will have but little tendency to lower the dignity of the Supreme Judge of Oregon. I am engaged in reading law and discharging the duties of the above mentioned office for which I receive a salary of five hundred dollars per year, besides all the fees for probate busi- ness, which swells the amount to about $600. I am well, doing well and well satisfied. I am sorry that I have not room to give you a history and description of our Government and laws, but I hope that you will not form an unfavorable opinion of it from the fact that you happen to be acquainted with one of its most important officers. We have five organized counties, the Gov., Judge, Sheriff, Recorder, Attorney, Treasurer and Assessor are State officers and operate for the whole, and hold two courts in each county annually; the Justices form the inferior courts. We have a Legislature composed of thirteen members who have now just commenced their annual session at this place which is the seat of Government. 24 Joseph G. Wilson, who came to Oregon in 1852, was elected to Congress in 1872, and died July 2, 18733 cousin of Mr. Nesmith. DOCUMENTS 381 I was appointed to my present office in December last to fill the vacancy occasioned by the resignation of Dr. Babcock, who left for New York by water. I received the nomination of the Champoeg Convention and ran for the office at the election which took place on the first Tuesday of the present month at which I received the unanimous vote of the whole Territory happening to be on all tickets, two of which I send you enclosed which were printed for Champoeg County. They are the first tickets printed in Oregon. You should preserve them as curiosities. The question of adopting a constitution was before the people at the late election, but was rejected. All names marked thus X on the tickets were elected. Everything appears prosperous and flourishing in the colony. By the Brig Cowlitz from California via the Sandwich Islands, we have American and English papers up to the first of January, 1845, which informs us that Polk is elected and Texas annexed, also a revolution in California. The patriots will be reinforced from this place, Don't fail to write every opportunity ; you can send letters by the Hudson Bay Co.'s express by paying the postage to Mon- treal or Quebec, direct to Fort Vancouver, Columbia River. Dr. White, U. S. Sub. Ind. Agent west of the Rocky Moun- tains, will bear this letter to the States, as he goes through Cincinnati ; he may call on you. If he does, I know that you will receive him kindly for my sake. He is a most worthy man, indefatigable in the discharge of his duties, full of his urbanity and kindness, besides being my particular personal and political friend. Law books are scarce here. I sent last year to St. Louis for a few volumes, but have heard nothing from the agent since. We have a very good circulating library in town, but few books that are of much aid in the study of law. The Cowlitz brought President Tyler's message ; we are all waiting with great anxiety to see what Congress will do for Oregon. 382 GOVERNOR GEORGE SIMPSON LETTER Three more merchant Bris are expected in daily ; one from New York, which left January last and will bring us a printing press, 25 the funds to pay for which was raised at this place by subscription. It affords me but little satisfaction to write to you, as I wish to say so many things, and have room for so few. If I could only be with you I could tell you more in half an hour than I could write in a week. I shall write you again in the latter part of this summer, which I will send to the Islands and over- land through Mexico. You will likely receive it as soon nearly as you do this. With great respect, I remain J. W. NESMITH. LETTER FROM SIR GEORGE SIMPSON TO ARCHIBALD McKiNLAY, 1848, WITH INTRODUCTORY NOTE. Editor of the Quarterly : Some question has always remained as to the personal rela- tion of Dr. John McLaughlin toward the accounts he opened so freely with the settlers in Oregon after their arrival in such destitute circumstances. The following letter written in June, 1848, by Gov. George Simpson, then in charge of the Hudson's Bay Company's affairs in America, to Mr. Archibald McKinlay, the chief trader of the Company in charge of their store at Oregon City, throws some light upon that question. When writing this letter Gov. Simpson was at Norway House on Lake Winnipeg, where was usually held the annual council with his chief factors and traders and where he passed upon the reports from the various districts of the Company's terri- tory. The letter was brought to Mr. McKinlay by the express leaving Norway House after the council and crossing the Rocky Mts. by the Athabasca Pass and arriving at Fort Van- couver usually in October. 25 The press upon which the Spectator was printed February 5, 1846 the first newspaper west of the Rocky Mountains in American territory. DOCUMENTS 383 The disturbed state of the Oregon country to which Gov. Simpson refers was the Indian war then in progress and reported to him in the dispatches from Fort Vancouver in the spring of 1848; and the sketch of Oregon City by Paul Kane, the artist, would be of interest, if accessible now. An inter- esting inquiry arises as to the Mr. McMellan mentioned ; could this have been the Mr. McMillan who was on the Columbia with David Thompson as early as 1809 and returned east with Gov. Simpson from Fort Vancouver in March, 1829, and seemingly then retired from the service as far as the Columbia District was concerned an efficient and trusted officer ? This letter is one of many discovered at the home of a son-in-law of Mr. McKinlay, at Savonas, B. C. ; the original is now in the Archives Department at Victoria. T. C. ELLIOTT. Walla Walla, December, 1912. Norway House, 24th June, 1848. Archibald McKinlay, Esqre., Willamette Falls. My Dear Sir: I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your valued communication of 16th March by which I am glad to find that all goes on with you at the Willamette Falls as well as might be expected from the disturbed state of the Country and the poverty and reckless habits of the surrounding population; the old outstanding debts come in very slowly and I fear there is very little prospect of their ever yielding a dividend of 50%. It is very satisfactory to learn that so good an understanding exists between Mr. McLoughlin and yourself ; you ought by all means to cultivate that gentleman's good will and be as useful to him as in your power. I should be glad to learn the nature and extent of Mr. McLoughlin and his sons business oper- ations. 384 GOVERNOR GEORGE SIMPSON LETTER Notwithstanding the wanf of capital among the Willamette population you appear to have done good business there during the past year, more especially so as it has been conducted on the principle of prompt payment from which there ought to be no deviation. I was quite surprised by the picturesque and respectable appearance of your city at the Falls, exhibited in a sketch by Mr. Kane, the doctor's mills form a very con- spicuous object. I should be glad to learn how they are likely to turn out. Your furlough came round this season but as you have not availed yourself thereof, lest your absence might be attended with inconvenience to the service, which is exceedingly con- siderate and laudable, care will be taken that leave of absence or change of rotation will be obtained for you in 1850 should you desire it; it would be well to apprise me next year if you be really determined to go in '50 in order that some other gentleman may be provided to fill your place. It affords me great satisfaction to learn by letters from Mr. McMellan this spring (conveying very favorable reports of Mrs. McMellan & their family) they have it in view to come out to Canada next year in order to take up their quarters at Point Fortune; indeed I think they would have been out this year had he been able to dispose of his place in the neighbor- hood of Perth to advantage. I am full of business, being about taking my departure for Canada, which will account for the brevity of this communi- cation and hoping to have the pleasure of hearing from you next season. Believe me to be, My Dear Sir, Very truly yours, G. SIMPSON. DOCUMENTS 385 MEMORIAL OF CITIZENS OF ASTORIA PROTESTING AGAINST A PROPOSED REMOVAL OF DISTRIBUTING POST OFFICE AND PORT OF ENTRY FROM ASTORIA TO PACIFIC CITY, 1850. To the Hon. The Senate House of Representatives of the United States of America in Congress Assembled : The Memorial of the Undersigned Citizens of Astoria, in the Territory of Oregon, respectfully showeth : That your Memorialists have been informed that a petition has been presented, or forwarded for presentation, to your Honorable body, for the removal of the Distributing Post office and Port of Entry, from Astoria to a place called Pacific City, nominally located on Baker's Bay, under Cape Disap- pointment on the North side of the Columbia River, and about thirteen miles below Astoria. Your Memorialists show that the relation of Cape Disap- pointment to Astoria is precisely similar to that of Sandy Hook to the city of New York ; that Baker's Bay is a place of anchorage, formerly used by vessels before the discovery of what is called the South Channel, while wind bound in passing Cape Disappointment; that vessels passing through the South Channel, whether in or out, owing to the prevalent winds of the country, suffer no other detention than that attending the mouth of any other river, from actual storms ; that, on the other hand, vessels passing through the North Channel, under Cape Disappointment, are exposed to detention on entering, as well as in going out; that they have often been delayed for weeks in Baker's Bay when they might have passed on by the South Channel at once ; that the anchorage within the bar is inferior in Baker's Bay to that under Tansy Point on the south side, and vessels lying there are more exposed to the prevalent winter storms. Your Memorialists further show that since the survey of the mouth of the Columbia by Commander Wilkes, the bar has un- dergone considerable change ; that the old channel has con- tracted, while the South or Clatsop Channel, has straightened 386 MEMORIAL OF CITIZENS OF ASTORIA and deepened; that since the end of February, when the ship Louisiana was first taken out by Captain Charles White, our Pilot, among nearly a hundred vessels which have crossed the bar in entering or going out, not more than ten have passed through the old channel or near to Pacific City ; that only one vessel ever voluntarily stopped at that port, and that even she came in at the South Channel. Your Memorialists further show that to all vessels ascending or descending the river a saving of some miles in actual distance is effected by the present route, as well as of time and peril; that vessels of any size which navigate our waters can enter by the south channel to Astoria; that the U. S. Steam Ship Massachusetts, the Sloop of War Falmouth, the Pacific Mail Steamers Carolina & California, have all passed it without detention or danger. And Your Memorialists further show that the petition for a change of the Port of Entry does not come from the people of Oregon or express their sentiment, nor does it further the interests of commerce ; that it is solely the offspring of specu- lators who are seeking to bolster up a fictitious town by the transfer of Government patronage from its natural seat. Your Memorialists finally show that a survey has recently been concluded of this port and harbor by the officers of the United States surveying schooner Ewing under Capt. Wm. P. Me Arthur, and also a reconnaissance by the joint Commission of Army & Navy officers attached to the United States Steamer Massachusetts, and they respectfully suggest that before any change is contemplated, those officers may be examined as to its propriety. And Your Memorialists will ever pray, etc. Dated at Astoria this 6th day of September, 1850. DOCUMENTS 387 SUMMERS & SMITH, A. P. EDWARDS, WILLIAM JOLLY, JOHN AD AIR,

• P. C. DAVIS,

THOMAS TRISTRAM, JOHN GRAW, ROBERT DYSON, ALFRED BOURGEOIS, SAMUEL T. McKEAN A. B. McKEAN, D. W. COFFINBERRY, JOSEPH LINCOLN, J. EDMUNDS, S. M. HENSILL, F. SWEVEAY, LUKE TAYLOR, GEO. GIBBS, GEO. H. HEWETT, THOMAS GOODWIN, THOMAS V. SMITH, C. W. SHANE, DAVID INGALLS, D. T. MANSELL, J. W. CHAMP, WM. W. FROST, JOHN A. ANDERSON, JACOB G. COE, TAYLOR, MOSES ROGERS, ,WM. P. BREED, R. SHORTESS, JAMES NIBLIN, JAMES ROBINSON, J.S.RlNEARSON & CO. R. H. BAIRD, JOHN SWEETMAN, S. C. SMITH, THOMAS NORRIS, J. W. MOFFITT, THOMAS MITCHELL, ALNE M.D.MACKAY, JOHN MCCLURE, ORIN POTTLE, C. BOELLING, A. VANDUSEN, E. C. CROW, IRA H. McKEAN, J. FROST & Co. HENRY MARLIN, ANDREW CONNERS, JAMES WELCH, JOHN E. GREENE, W. S. KEENE, O. J. HUMPHREY, S. H. SMITH, R. HUNTS, EDW. MCCARTY, F. W. PETTYGROVE, DAVID E. PEASE, CHAS. H. MUNN, HENRY DRIVER, H. S. AIKEN.

• The only one in the above list now alive a resident of California.