90
times. Inside we found a large and well-ventilated room, plainly finished, without gilding or decoration, with a gallery around three sides. The parquette was furnished with small tables, at which parties were regaling themselves with tea and refreshments. Most of the audience were men of the better class, some few of whom had their wives and children with them. A polite attendant showed us to our seats, which had been secured beforehand near the stage, and then placed before us very thin porcelain cups with covers. In each he put some tea leaves and poured hot water from small bronze kettles, which were carried around all the evening to replenish the cups. He then brought little dishes of dried fruit and sweetmeats, miniature oranges and roasted water-melon seeds, which are furnished to the audience gratuitously, and supply the place of peanuts in western theatres. Playbills were furnished printed in Chinese on red paper. As we were the only foreigners present our entrance attracted some attention, but no rude staring annoyed us, and everybody around seemed studiously polite. Indeed, with the better class of Chinese, politeness is a science and gracefulness of manners, a study. I was much amused at watching a party of four gentlemen who came in and occupied a table near us. It was full ten minutes before they were seated, from the most excessive and persistent efforts on the part of each that every other one should occupy a better seat than himself. One seat being back to the stage each seemed determined to occupy it, with infinite bowings and compliments to his companions. The party were provided with the usual refreshments, and when the attendant brought a joss stick to light their pipes, which were ornamented with silver and very handsome, each insisted that the others should light first, The proverbial politeness of the Frenchman was not to be compared to this exhibition of Chinese manners.
Near us was seated a lady with nails on the third and fourth fingers of her left hand fully three inches in length. She frequently held this hand up to her face, as ladies sometimes do at home who wear elegant rings, and probably with the same motive. She was “got up” in great style, and often consulted a small mirror to make sure that her face and head dress were all right. She flirted her elegant ivory fan with all the grace of a Spanish Signorita, and ought to have had the mirror inserted in it—an idea
