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LETTER I.

Lake Tahoe—Morning in San Francisco—Dust—A Pacific Mail-Train—Digger Indians—Cape Horn—A Mountain Hotel—A Pioneer—A Truckee Livery Stable—A Mountain Stream—Finding a Bear—Tahoe.
Lake Tahoe, September 2.

I have found a dream of beauty at which one might look all one's life and sigh. Not lovable, like the Sandwich Islands, but beautiful in its own way! A strictly North American beauty—snow-splotched mountains, huge pines, red-woods, sugar pines, silver spruce; a crystalline atmosphere, waves of the richest colour; and a pine-hung lake which mirrors all beauty on its surface. Lake Tahoe is before me, a sheet of water twenty-two miles long by ten broad, and in some places 1700 feet deep. It lies at a height of 6000 feet, and the snow-crowned summits which wall it in are from 8000 to 11,000 feet in altitude. The air is keen and elastic. There is no sound but the distant and slightly musical ring of the lumberer's axe.

It is a weariness to go back, even in thought, to the clang of San Francisco, which I left in its cold. morning fog early yesterday, driving to the Oakland