PART SECOND.
CHAPTER FIRST.
Of the most favourable period for the Vintage, and the Method of Procedure.
IT has heen established as a principle, that the time of the vintage is that of the maturity of the grape, since in this state it yields, by fermentation, the greatest possible quantity of alcohol. But this general principle is subject to several exceptions; for, in the colder climates, the grape seldom attains its perfect maturity, and it is necessary that it should be gathered in a comparatively green state, to save it from the putrefaction to which it would be exposed by the prevalance of cold moist weather, towards the end of autumn. The object, in such climates, is then to seize the moment when it ceases to gain more ripeness on the stock.
There are, besides, countries where the wine is esteemed for qualities with which the perfect maturity of the grape is incompatible. It is often an object to obtain wine rather endowed with an
