was obtained by reducing the must one-half, by means of fire; and the third, named sapa, from must, concentrated to such a degree, that only one-third of the original quantity remained.
Several methods of concentrating the juices of the white grape, by allowing it to wither on the stock, or, after being cut, to dry in the sun, have been mentioned in a former chapter, as being the practice in various countries at the present day; and in treating of fermentation, it shall be shewn, that it may be advantageously directed by thickening a part of the must to mix with the remainder; and that a degree of strength is thus given to wines, which they would never attain without it. What is chiefly to be treated of in this chapter, is the separation of the grapes from the stalks, and treading them.
The advantages and disadvantages of these processes, called in France, egrappage and foulage, have given rise to considerable discussion among those who have treated of the subject; but the question, on both sides, seems to have been, like many others, treated in too exclusive a manner, as will appear by placing it in its true point of view.
The stalks, being possessed of a bitter principle and austere taste, communicate to the wine, with which they have been allowed to ferment, these
