Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 3, Underwear) (IA completecoursein03cono).pdf/52

edge must have a seam and cannot be cut on the fold of the goods.

Extend the center-front and center-back lines below the lower edge of the chemise. Measure one-half the length of the strap of the envelope chemise beyond the lower edge at the front and back. Curve the straps to blend in to the lower edge of the chemise. In tracing the new pattern, allow seams at all points except the center-front edge. The center-front edge will be laid on the fold. Allow a hem beyond the upper edges.

Making a Step-in Chemise: Close the underarm seams first. French seams will give the neatest finish. Leave them open for a space of six inches at the lower edge.

Also make a French seam in joining the strap at the lower edge.

Before hemming the top of the chemise, make and finish a quarter-inch slash at the center-front one-half inch downFig. (69) Mark the slash on the goods from the top. This affords a place for inserting the ribbon in the hem.

The easiest way of finishing this slash is to face it. Mark the slash as shown in Fig. 69. Cover this mark with a facing piece, cut to

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