Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 5, Skirts) (IA completecoursein05cono).pdf/73

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MAKING SKIRTS THAT HAVE STYLE

swell of the hips comes back of these points. Pleat the side of the front panel about the same depth from top to bottom. In the case of the skirt used as an example, this would be two and one-eighth inches. Subtract this amount from the amount to be pleated at the waistline. In the case mentioned, it gives you twenty-seven and seven-eighth inches. Divide this amount by the remaining number of pleats. If an equal amount were put into each pleat, it would give a little more than three and seven-eighths for a pleat. However, it is better to make the first pleats even and add the extra width to the last pleat.

At the hips, the pleat at the panel ought to be the same depth that it is at the bottom. At the other pleats the fullness can be distributed equally. Figuring on the skirt used as an example in this lesson, you would take two and one-eighth inches, the width of the first pleat from the amount to be pleated at the hips, which is twenty-four inches. This gives you twenty-one and seven-eighth inches. Dividing twenty-one and seven-eighths by seven, the number of pleats left, you have three and one-eighth inches to go into each pleat. Make a memorandum of the amount

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