examined their horses, which seemed excellent. Their baggage was transported by mules, which were very strong, though of small build. After some time^ through one of our men, they asked permission to visit us, but we refused on the plea that we did not speak their language, and that they were not of sufficiently high rank. It is absolutely necessary to give people a high opinion of yourself when you are travelling in the East and meet with strangers. As they quitted the camp we saw that they were well-clothed, in the Chinese fashion, that they were taller and stouter than those of their fellow-countrymen whom we had so far come across, and that, from their polished manners, they evidently belonged to a town.
Dedeken and Abdullah reported their conversation to us. They presented themselves to us as envoys of the Talai Lama and of the Amban of Lhassa, the former being the highest religious authority, and the latter one of the greatest civic personages, a sort of Under-Secretary of State. They wished to see our papers, to know who we were, for what purpose we were travelling, etc. By way of answer to these questions we complained of the manner in which we had been received en route; adding that we could not obtain any help, purchase provisions, or hire beasts of burden; that we failed to understand such treatment, seeing that we had paid generously for what we had bought on the first day, but that, notwithstanding, we had been obliged to seize things by force; and that if they continued to treat us as highwaymen, we should behave as such. Thereupon a lama, clad in yellow silk and decorated with the bright blue button, spoke volubly and expressed his regrets that we had been so treated, begging us to understand that no one looked for proper behaviour from savages, from "Si fantse," assuring us at the same time that we should, for the future, have no cause to complain. Finally, he urged us to hand him our papers, and to remain where we were, when our wants would be supplied. Dedeken replied that we had need of
