Page:Africa by Élisée Reclus, Volume 4.djvu/523

PHYSICAL FEATURES OF MADA0A6CAB. 427 also comprises an extensive collection of over 1,500 books, pamphlets, maps, and documents of all sorts. Physical Features. Madagascar lacks the regular uniformity of structure attributed to it by the early explorers. The fanciful mountain range boldly traced by them from Amber Cape in the extreme north to Cape St. Mary in the extreme south, has no existence. Instead of a main range thus symmetrically disposed, the island presents in its northern and central parts various irregular mountain masses resting on a common pediment of elevated tablelands, and falling towards the sea in far from uniform slopes. Were the surrounding waters to encroach on the land in such a way as to encircle its mountainous parts, the island, thus reduced in size, would not present its outlines as they actually exist. The western incline, facing the Mozambique Channel, slopes far more gently than that of the opposite side, while in several districts along its base stretch extensive plains but slightly raised above sea- level. Towards the southern extremity of the island also the ground falls to a low level, mountains and hills completely disappearing, or else replaced along the coastlands by chains of shifting dunes. But on the east side the slope is in general extremely precipitous, and is here continued by the submarine cliffs down to depths of over 10,000 feet. According to Mullens,* the first lofty eminence met by the traveller advancing from the southern lowlands is the natural citadel of Ivohibd, in the Bara country. Beyond this isolated crag the ground rises to a rugged plateau, flanked by border ranges or escarpments. Towards the central region, but considerably nearer to the east than to the west coast, rise the Ankaratra highlands, culminating point of Madagascar. This group of mountains, whose main axis is disposed in the same direction as that of the island itself, has several peaks over 8,000 feet high, the loftiest being the Tsiafa-Javona, or " Snowy Mountain," which according to Sibree attains an altitude of close upon 9,000 feet. To the south the other summits average only half this height ; but towards the north several crests have been observed with an altitude of about 5,000 feet. Of all the mountains in Madagascar, the Ambinivini, standing to the west of Anton-Gil Bay, presents perhaps the most imposing aspect. Its upper flanks rise like a rocky wall some 2,000 feet sheer above the road winding through the valley below. Apart from the great mountain masses, the surface of the land has the appear- ance of an irregular steppe, stretching away in long billowy undulations of a red or greyish clay, interrupted here and there by abrupt masses of granite, gneiss, schists, or basalts cropping out in the form of towers and ramparts, or else piled up in chaotic heaps. The base of the highlands, some 3,000 feet high, is limited east- wards by escarpments and terraced slopes, which seen from the sea present the aspect of coast ranges with their promontories, headlands, and transverse gorges. These outer steppe-like walls of the plateaux are for the most part covered with forests. • Journal of the Royal Geographical Society, 1877.