Page:Archaeological Journal, Volume 4.djvu/310

286 ENGLISH MEDIEVAL EMBROIDERY. This very remarkable specimen of embroidery is laid upon a foundation of deep blue silk, having four different subjects on the shoulders, behind, and in front, exhibiting, although taken from ditTerent actions, the glorification of the body of our Lord. The whole has been carefully wrought with gold tambour, and silk, and the numerous figures, as many as fifty- four, surrounding the Redeemer, who sits enthroned on a rainbow in the centre, display simplicity and gracefulness of design. The field of the vestment is powdered with flowers and crosses of gold and silver, having the bottom enriched with a running floriated pattern. It has also a representation of paradise, wherein the flowers, carried by tigers of gold, are of emerald green, turquoise blue, and flame colour. Crosses of silver, cantoned with tears of gold, and of gold cantoned with tears of silver alternately, are inserted in the flowing foliage at the edge. Other crosses within circles are also placed after the same rule, when of gold in medallions of silver, and wdien of silver in the reverse order. Both the descriptions and the drawings which have been given to the world of this remarkable vestment, for few per- sons have had an opportunity of examining it, would induce the belief that it can scarcely be of such high antiquity as has been generally supposed. There is no history as to the man- ner or the time when it came into the pontifical treasury, and its style of art justifies the conclusion of Mons. Didron, that it is the manufacture of the twelfth century. Were we to describe the foliated pattern in architectural language, wdiich win be readily intelligible to all our readers, it would be by saying that it bears decidedly the inqDress of an Early English character. It has been conjectured that this dalmati-c was formerly used by the German emperors when they Avere con- secrated and crowned, and when they assisted the pope at the office of mass. On such occasions the emperor discharged the functions of sub-deacon or deacon, and, clothed with a dalmatic, chaunted the Epistle and Gospel ; in illustration of this custom it may be remarked that several 'of the German emperors took part in the service, even so late as Charles V., who sung the Gospel at Boulogne in 1529. The dalmatic in fact was in those times, as it continues at the present day, both a regal and ecclesiastical habit, and it has constantly been the custom of European kingdoms for their sovereiofus to wear it at their coronation.