182 ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS. It. an ounce of blacke silke, xxii"* ; to the caryer for bringing downe these things, ii** ii' iiii"* It. for a pare of shewes for M" Mary ....... vii^ Anno 1581. It. p** for a payre of knitt hose for M'** Mary Fannor . . . . ii' It. p"* for a payre of shuse ......... viii<^ It. for a payre of gloves ......... vi** It. for vi dozen of basket lace . . . . - . • . . x' It. for silk rybband . . . iij"* It. for pyns . . ii"* It. for V yards & half of duble morkadoe* for a petticot . . . . ix» ii"* It. for ij ownces & half de q' of partynuet lace,* at ii* p' ownce . . • v' iii*! It. for a q' of murrey sarsnet ......... xv*" It. for an ownce of statut lace ......... xiiii It. for eys and clasps .......... ii** It. for iij p' of yelow taffita for sleives for her silke gowne . . . . vii' viii** It. for mockadoe for a worke-day gowne ....... xii' It. to the taylor for making ii gownes and a petticoate . . . . . xiiij' It. for vi yards of cloth for smocks ........ vi* iii"* It. for an ell of holland to make sleives, gorgets, and coyfs . . . . vii' It. for ij cales, parcell silver, and gylt ....... xiij' It. for a cale and shadoe" .......... iiij' It. delyvered Mrs. Mary, when she vrent to my L. garrad^s [Gerrards] . iiij' It. to her that loked to her when she was sicke . . . . . . iij* iiii** It. geven Doctor Smith for going to my cosine Mary . . . . x* It. for a greine cote, a hatt, and a vellet girdell for Mr. Richard Fermor . xvi* x"* It. to the scowlemaster for his whole yere's payns, from Christmas last till Christmas next, for Mr. Richard Fermor . . . . . xl' 1 582. It. for the horde of Mr. Richard Fermor and James his s'vnte, for one whole yere, at viii* the weke, viz. from Christmas last to Christmas next xx" xvi' It. for suger-candie to avoyde fleme, his mouthe and throte being sore . ii** It. for a dozen of poynts^ for hym to playe w'*" ..... iii It. for ij litle boxes to kepe his ])oynts and counters in .... iiii"* It. for fyggs to victor w'"" in lent, at dyv's times [.^] . . . . vi It. Mr. Richard Fermor gave awaye at New-yere's tide . . . . vi*" It. for pynnes for hym to play w'*" at Christmas . . . . . ii"* It. for a silke string to tie his new knife . . . . . . . i"* It. for daspes for his shert-bands ........ i"" It. for a penner and inckehorne . . . . . . . . ^ It. for iij elnes and a qua'r of bollande to make hym shertes, at xxi** th'elne vii' v*" •^ " Morkadoc, mockado, a stuff made in samano, any kind of lace ; also bordering imitation of velvet, and sometimes called or garding for garments. Passamano daccia, mock velvet." — Nares. statute lace, crewell lace." (See further,
- Lace of four kinds is here named, — bone, Sir Fr. Madden's Privy Purse Expenses of
partyrmet, basket, and statute lace. Randal the Princess Mary, pp. 97, 143, 253.) In Holme, in the Academy of Armory, 1688, Hari. MS., 1370, in a list of effects of Ed- (B. iii., c. 3,) gives many terms connected ward YI., is mentioned "passemvnc lace;" with the fabrication of lace, and divides the as also in Harl. MS. 1419, and in the Cus- craft, seemingly, betwixt the two principal tom-house Rates of Mary, printed 1582. classes of " bone lace and parchment lace- Some confusion of terms seems to have been makers." The former has been defined as made between j)av««enie?i? and parchment, made of flaxen thread, and named from the " Cale and shadoe, a cawl and bongrace,or use of bobbins of bone in the process of projecting hat. The former was occasionally its manufacture. Parchemyne, passemyne, set with pearls or bugles. " Bonne-grace, or passamaine lace, a tcnn not noticed th' uppermost flap of the down-hanging taile by Nares, has been explained as so termed of a French hood, whence belike our Boon- from the parchment upon which it was grace." — Cotgrave. " Vtlaregli, bonegraccs, worked, either as a pattern or for greater shadowes, vailes, or launes, that women use facility in the fabrication. (See Miss Strick- to weare on their foreheads for the suniie." land's note iu her Life of Queen Mary, — Florio. (See Coles, Philips, Nares, &t.) p. 235.) Cotgrave gives "Pasgament, a Povnts and pvnnes, the ancient skittles lace ; " and Florio (Ital. Diet., 1 598,) " Pas- and nine-pins.
