into clear water rubbing the while. Then rub some sulphuric acid and sal-ammoniac, one part of each, and two parts of nitric acid with four parts of water. Dip the article into this for a moment then into clear water again, and bury in hot sawdust to dry. Brass candlesticks, piano sconces, &c., no matter how dirty or tarnished, treated in this way will look like new.
Brooms.—Some people imagine that a broom never requires washing, this is a mistake as the dust and cobwebs that collect round the hairs, all clog and take from its usefulness. The hair brooms should be washed in warm suds at least once a month. In choosing a millet broom take one with a greenish tinge through the straws, and notice if all the twigs reach to the bottom, as when some are uneven or short, only reaching half way, the broom will not wear well, the straws and twigs breaking off. Also see that all the twigs go up to the handle and are not only fastened under one or other of the wires. A good plan is to put a cape or cover on a new millet broom round the shoulders and reaching a short distance below the wiring. It will keep the straws from breaking off or catching in curtains, vallances, &c., as they often do. Brooms should always be hung up when not in use, and if this plan is not convenient they should be stood with the brush end up, if otherwise they soon lose shape. An excellent thing to sweep carpets with instead of tea leaves is cut grass. Another plan is to wet the broom. Millet brooms should be washed as often as the others, and, besides cleaning it often keeps the twigs from breaking.
Dry Earth.—It is acknowledged that dry earth is the very best deodoriser and disinfectant known, being more powerful than any other agent. Therefore in every household there should be a supply kept handy for the purpose of covering offensive matter. For instance, meat that has gone bad, vegetables thrown out from the kitchen. In most cases these things
have a strange way of coming to the surface of the dust bin, they should be buried, but often as not they are thrown out with the other refuge from the kitchen. If a quantity of dry earth is kept at hand a shovelful or two thrown over the refuse when emptied into the dust bin or thrown out will prevent ill effects and unpleasantness. A small tin of dry earth should be kept in the nursery where there are young children, and the attendant should be impressed with the necessity for using it. Every water-closet should have a kerosene tin fitted in one corner filled with dry earth. Some people cry out about the difficulty of getting it, but in reality there need be no trouble if they set about it properly. A sieve or riddle is necessary to remove stones and trash, but that can be made with a piece of perforated wire netting. Powdered charcoal, wood ashes, street dust, all are equally effective. And if freely used by every member of the family, there will be no occasion for carbolic acid or any other disinfectant. Where it is necessary to use carbolic acid, for instance in drains, sewers, &c., &c., the proper quantity is a pint of coarse commercial acid to two gallons of water. Infected clothing, bed hangings, &c., should be boiled in water in which carbolic acid is mixed, and floors should be scrubbed with it after fever or any infectious sickness.
To Clean Oil Paintings. No. 1.—Mix some whiting in a saucer with a little warm water, to the consistency of thick cream, and with a piece of flannel or a small sponge rub the picture briskly, and wash off with warm water. Some people use stale bread as you would an indiarubber. I have found the above effectual.
To Clean Oil Paintings. No. 2.—If very dirty the best way is to take all the varnish off and re-varnish. This is done by rubbing or washing the painting with good whiskey. The varnish will come off in a froth, be careful to get every bit of it off, and then wash well with cold water; dry
