the drowsy god, when in rushed Count Stenbock, confirming the announcement, and that we were all expected at the Quartier Géneral in ten minutes. I need hardly say that I was dressed in no time, and that we started at 4.30 at a brisk canter across the plain, and were all in our places in front of the Emperor's pavilion in good time. Meanwhile the troops had hurried into their positions, and the Emperor, mounting a small grey barb, rode down the line saying "Good morning, my children," to each regiment, to which the men shout reply in unison. After the inspection came the march-past; and as there was fully 50,000 on the ground, this was a long affair, and the morning air struck chill upon us all, besides the annoyance of the dust, which absolutely smothered us. But the appearance and bearing of the troops were superb, and merited praise all the more owing to the alacrity with which they had turned out at so early an hour. We were home by nine o'clock, much interested by all we had seen, but very cold and hungry. Luncheon at one o'clock, and then we passed the whole afternoon driving about, paying official visits to generals and heads of departments. Happily the visiting consisted in leaving cards; but it is de rigueur to do this in state, so I donned cocked-hat, and we drove en cortége.
Dinner at seven o'clock. I was next to a very agreeable Princess Kutusoff. I was rather tired, but ashamed of being so, as no one is tired, apparently, in this country. Afterwards to the theatre, this time "La Mascotte" in French, very well given and very amusing. It was 1.30 before I could get to bed. It appears this Czar had never given this alerte before, though the late Emperor was very fond of taking people by surprise. Even the Minister of War, General Vannowsky, told me that he knew nothing of it till after two o'clock on the same morning.
Next morning, the 13th, was the bénédiction des drapeaux – a most interesting ceremony, which takes place twice a-year. The time, fortunately for me and indeed for all, was eleven, so that we were not obliged to turn out before a reasonable hour. In full dress we waited for the Emperor and Empress near a little chapel on the edge of the lake hard by. Detachments of picked men from every regiment, with the standard or colour, were ranged in double line.
The whole Imperial family went down the line and into the chapel, which was open at the sides – that is, was only pillars and roof. Popes and priests, and the choir of the loveliest voices I ever heard. A long service, very sweet and solemn music, all of us bareheaded. Then they all returned to the steps of a pavilion, and the detachment marched past: the Empress received the report of the day of her regiment, the Emperor of the others; and so home to breakfast or luncheon, where again I found myself next Mdlle. Kutusoff, and on the other side a nice Baroness von Hinüber, who belongs to the ex-Hanoverian Court, and is here with one of the Hanoverian princesses. After luncheon a series of official visits to members of the Imperial family – cocked-hat again! We had to write down our names some twenty or thirty times, and leave two or three dozen cards on the courtiers, and then our official visits were, I think, fairly accomplished! I was glad to get back to my quarters.
This morning (14th August) we were up at seven. Off at eight on wheels to the plains, where we found our horses; and when the
