the morning with Prince Windischgrätz, who was going off at mid-day to Cracow, and then we (the remainder) were bound for Peterhoff in the afternoon, so that by 5.30, when I returned, I felt disinclined for a night-journey, and so remained on for another day. To-day I propose to have another look at the Hermitage, and to go off at 8 P.M. to Moscow with Captain Davidson. Colonel Low starts for England to-day, as he has business, and takes this letter with him as he travels through.
I am perfectly amazed at the treasures of the Hermitage, and could spend a week easily in the examination and study of them. Pictures, statues, antiquities, the Kertch collection, and gems, fill room after room of this immense palace, and all is admirably arranged. Raphael is represented by four or five masterpieces, among which the "Vierge de la Maison d'Albe" is perhaps the best known. A lovely Fra Angelico has lately been added. The collection of jewels and gold ornaments obtained by excavation at Kertch is marvellous, proving that nothing is new under the sun; for the designs of rings, bracelets, necklaces, &c., are absolutely the same as those now in vogue, though executed in far finer workmanship.
Peterhoff and its gardens and park are well worth a visit. The palace is not inhabited, but remains much as it was in Catherine's time, though balls and parties are occasionally given in it. The gardens are in the Versailles style, and the water-works which we saw will bear very favourable comparison with those at Versailles. The park goes down to the sea, and is well laid out in trees, and walks, little lakes. The Emperor and Empress live in a small château in the grounds hard by; and this seems to be the custom, as they thus have more liberty and less of Court ceremony.
At this moment they are on board the Imperial yacht, looking at the naval manœuvres at Cronstadt. We dined at six, and there was a deal of speechifying of an effusive kind, and I had to speak, of course. It always seems to fall to me. They say I spoke properly; but French is a bad language for an improvised oration. The weather is lovely, and I trust it may remain so while we are at Moscow.
Moscow,
Saturday, Aug. 30, 1884.
We arrived here at 10.30 this morning after a successful journey, leaving St Petersburg at 8.30 last night. We were accompanied to the station by Colonel Tchitchakoff and Count Stenbock, and many and hearty were the adieux. By their advice we (Davidson and I) took a sleeping-compartment to ourselves, and I am glad of it, as we were as comfortable as if in a room. You know I cannot sleep in the train, but he did; and I rested myself somehow, and do not feel done up, though I have already seen a great deal of Moscow.
We are lodged at the hotel called the Sabiansky Bazaar, in the Kitai or Chinese town. A bath and a good breakfast, and then we started to the Kremlin with an English laquais de place, having taken a carriage for the afternoon. Unluckily the weather has changed, and instead of the heat we were told we should experience, the cold has been intense, and we have to take every precaution to avoid catching a chill. All attempt at describing the Kremlin would fail, unless page after page were filled
