in the Russian national character. Then we went to the old church of St Basil, which is more remarkable for its quaint exterior than for anything inside it; then luncheon; and then, in spite of the threatening rain, we clambered to the top of the Tower of Ivan, and were rewarded by a practical lifting of the clouds and the grandest panoramic view of Moscow. The churches are innumerable, and as their domes and cupolas are almost always gilded or painted some bright colour, the city is as it were lighted up by those bright spots amid the vast maze of green roofs. The Moskowa river winds gracefully through the town, passing close to the foot of the Kremlin Hill; but it is a sluggish and useless stream, not navigable for anything but a wood barge or float.
At the foot of the Ivan Tower lies the great bell – the broken piece being carefully preserved. We passed out by the arsenal gate, where are collected in a long row all the guns left behind by and captured from the French in the campaign of 1812.
And thus our visit to Moscow closes. There is more to be seen, no doubt; but we have taken in as much as we can well hold. I think we should have done wrong to have left Russia without seeing its ancient capital, so different is it in every respect from St Petersburg.
The railway journeys are so distasteful to me, that I prefer the idea of breaking them by the trip to Sweden, to that dreary fifty hours' train to Berlin.
Ligova, near St Petersburg,
Sept. 4, 1884.
A letter written at Moscow, but hastily finished with a postscript at St Petersburg, was sent to you yesterday, and therefore I have not broken the link of our communication by any very long gap.
I am writing in the verandah of Mr Evelyn Hubbard's villa, half-way between St Petersburg and Peterhoff, by whose invitation Davidson and I passed the night here. Mr Hubbard has had to go to the city early on business; but Davidson and I are taking it easy, as we are rather short of sleep. Breakfast is coming, and meanwhile I am enjoying a delightful blaze of morning sun, and looking forward to a spell of fine weather for our journey to Stockholm, which begins to-day at 6 P.M. – at which hour we are to embark at the Nicholas Bridge, and gain our first experiences of the Gulf of Finland. We shall halt at Helsingfors and Aboe, and remain four or five hours at each; so we hope to see much that is interesting besides the Aland Islands.
And now for my adventures yesterday.
We had dined, as I told you, with our ambassador, and then walked home and gone to bed about 12.30; and was in a profound sleep, when, at 3 A.M., a soldier appeared at my bedside with a note from Colonel Tchitchakoff to say he had a telegram from Peterhoff, and that the Empress would see me at ten o'clock next day! As I had to get up and answer this, and then ponder as to whether my uniform had been left by Rowland in complete order, you may imagine that I did not get much more rest. By eight I was dressed in full fig, and Tchitchakoff came for me. We caught the nine o'clock train, and were at Peterhoff by ten. Driving first to the Chamberlain's – Prince Jean Galitzin – he told me that eleven was the hour for reception, that a room was ready for me, tea, &c., &c.; and a car-
