the Queen," and the people cheered, and I had to stand up and bow. Luckily it was nearly dark, for I felt rather like a fool. However, I insisted on sending a message to the bandmaster, requesting that he would play the Swedish national air, which, by the way, is a very fine hymn. So there was more cheering, and we took a lovely drive by moonlight through the park, which is surrounded by the estuaries or fiords. There is some fine timber, oak-trees as well as fine and good ilexes, down to the water's edge.
Yesterday we saw the Museum of Antiquities, full of Scandinavian relics, well arranged according to periods, beginning with the Stone or Flint periods. There are many relics, too, of the time of Gustavus Adolphus and Charles XII. In short, we left Stockholm with a strong desire to revisit it.
The fine weather continues, and we are much struck with the beauty of this old city. The approach from Malmö, where the railway ends, and where we took ship, is very fine, though not equal to that by which you enter Stockholm from the sea. At breakfast I found at the next table to me Count and Countess Danniskiold, who recognised me first. We have been to the Thorwaldsen Museum, and to the Antiquities also, so I am rather done! but we shall take it easy to-morrow, as we do not start till 7 P.M., and shall be at Hamburg I hope by nine in the morning, and so much nearer you and home. I have been to the Legation and found all your letters. The Vivians are at Elsinore. Lady Rumbold, by the way, was also absent from Stockholm. I see no reason why we should not be in London by Saturday 13th, viâ Flushing.
[In the above letters, all reference to details of professional criticism have been necessarily avoided; but your readers, however indulgent, would be disappointed if I did not allude to the appearance of the Russian troops generally. At the great camp at Krasnoe Seló, which corresponds with our Aldershot, we found 56,000 men of all ranks, of whom at least 40,000 were of the Guard. Nothing can exceed the stately and soldier-like bearing of the Garde à Cheval and Chevalier Garde, by which names the Household Cavalry are known. They can fairly claim to rival our Life Guards. The infantry soldiers are of large stature, are well fed and cared for in camp and barracks, and their countenances give evidence of contentment, while discipline is easily maintained. The Artillery can boast special claim to notice. The horses, though small, are swift, active, and capable of much endurance; and the gunners proved themselves to be highly instructed, and confident in the value of their rifled guns. No pains were spared, no details neglected; and the value of concentrating large bodies of troops for occasional manœuvres on a large scale, commended itself much to the minds of all the foreign visitors. From the Emperor we received most royal and gracious hospitality; and from the officers generally we experienced the same unvarying cordiality, which made us feel that we were living amongst comrades.
George W. A. Higginson, Lieut.-General, C.B.]
