try-cooks one thousand and one years behind in civilization. Albeit, you see ribbons, gauzes, silks, satins, like moving rainbows in the streets, the people have a very plebeian appearance. I was particularly struck with this at their exhibition, which is very superior to what you would expect a provincial one to be. There are some fine old pictures sent by the neighbouring gentlemen; some good modern ones from London, and some exhibited by young artists in this part of the country, very promising indeed. The portraits are what portraits usually are, 'tiresome takings of a foolish face.' Painters might exclaim with the author of 'Rouge et Noir' on seeing his fair, alias pale, alias yellow, or tout-ensemble sea-sick countrywomen land at Calais—
'Now, by St. George on horseback! one would think
The ugliest come on purpose to disgrace us.'
There is a fine collection of pictures at, which is also a most beautiful place, formerly a preceptory of the Templars, with some curious antiquarian remains, but invisible to common eyes, the Marchioness of Hbeing at present there lamenting her hard fate, and the utter inability to live on six-and-thirty thousand a year. To our left is a place belonging to Mr., noticeable as a woman-hater. Not so much as a foolish fat scullion will he suffer in his house. Even the white window-curtains were taken down as bearing too much resemblance to female drapery. For every why there is a wherefore; et voici le fait; he formed an early attachment to a very beautiful girl, much his inferior in fortune; he was sent abroad, but continued most romantically constant. As soon as his father's death made him master of a noble estate, he mar-
