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The scenery at times is fascinating in its very wild- ness and sterility, and in the strange and fantastic shapes it often assumes. There are the weird buttes, and a Chimney rock, at once the monument and rem- nant of an ancient bluff, beaten upon and worn away by the winds and waters of ages, yet lifting still into the face of heaven its long, fixed finger of hope or warning, as you choose to regard it. S^ott bluffs spread for miles their sandstone towers and sand-cliffs, grand as the hills of Bashan and the giant cities ; but one by one, through the long ages, their wandering, terrible foe, heralded by cloudy column and pillar of fire, girdles their ramparts, and the crash of a Jericho is heard again through the horn-blasts of the tempest, and the roar of the beleaguerinof elements. Then the grass becomes scarce as the emigrant passes on, and in many places is all consumed, and new and untrod- den routes must be sought, and cattle begin to faint for food, and women and children to sicken and die, and men, ill-fed and poorly clad, keeping the saddle from daylight till dark, and exposed to alternate blasts of heat and cold, begin to fail. Wagons must be lightened of their load or emptied. Meanwhile the poor dumb brutes thus slowly dying, sacrificed to their owners' greed, gasping, and insensible to the goad, open-mouthed, with lolling tongue and slobbering jaws and dull sunken eyes, drag along their two or twenty miles a day, or with limbs swollen and trem- bling fall dead from thirst and hunger.

Better their masters, brutes scarcely more reason- able, should thus have died; and so they did, poor fellows, many of them, and mingled their bodies with the carcasses of their beasts. All the way from the valley of the Mississippi westward, long, tortuous tracks were marked by the broken wagons, demolished tents, cast-off clothing, stale provisions, and household effects that lined the roadside  ; all along the several routes by which these pilgrims marched were scattered bones, and the rotting carcasses of cattle intermingled