stantial, and coated with dazzling white or straw color,
and the streets clean.
Crossing the gulf and continuing our course, on the 27th we meet the steamer New Orleans bound south. Past the surge-smoothed granite columns, cavern ed rocks, and high white beach of Cape St Lucas, and out of the intertropical regions, and the temperature changes ; particularly in summer, when the traveller leaves the warm southerly winds of the Central American and Mexican coasts for the cool bracing northwesters and chilly fogs of California. And with the climate scenery changes, and desolation now marks the border of our way, hitherto robed in re- dundant vegetation. The forest-clad Cordilleras of Mexico disappear and the treeless hills of the penin- sula come in view. Approaching the colder regions, the albatross turns back and we are met by myriads of Mother Carey's chickens, and graceful gulls which follow the ship for hundreds of miles. The southern cross dips lower and lower until it finally disappears, and the north star rises each night higher above the horizon. Drooping spirits revive. White linens and blue flannels are packed away, and winter woolens and thick clothing^ substituted.
The coast of Lower California as seen from the steamer, presents a series of openings and headlands, with now and then volcanic mountains, and unbroken plains of vast extent, reaching far into the interior, all basking beneath a fervent sky. In places are rocky steeps over which are scattered a few cacti and some distorted shrubs, with more robust vegetation back of all, and now and then a fertile-looking valley running inland. The islands of Santa Maro-arita and Cerros lying near the mainland present rather an un- inviting appearance. The country, however, is more attractive on nearer acquamtance.
And now our eager eyes catch the half-transparent hills of Alta California, but before we fairly reach
