Page:Canadian Alpine Journal I, 1.djvu/100

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How We Climbed Cascade
63

half an hour, however, he found himself hanging to that ledge by his toe-nails and finger-tips, looking down into a gully full of what appeared to be stone, in alpine vocabulary scree, and sliding out into space at an angle of forty-five degrees or less, and the summit still far above him. Hanging there, there flashed across his mind for a moment the problem as to how the party could secure his mangled remains, and having secured them, how they could transport them down this mountain side. He decided that in the present situation his alpenstock added little to his safety and could well be dispensed with. As it clattered down upon the broken rocks far below, he found himself making a rapid calculation as to the depth of the drop and its effect upon the human frame. Before reaching a conclusion, he had begun edging his way backward, making the discovery that all mountain-climbers sooner or later make, that it is easier to follow your fingers with your toes, than your toes with your fingers. The descent accomplished, the Missionary with his loyal following reluctantly proceeded to follow the rest of the party, who had by this time gone round the head of the gulch, or the couloir in expert phrasing, and were some distance in advance. A stern chase is a long chase, and almost always disheartening. But in this case the advance guard were merciful, and, sitting down to enjoy the view, waited for the pursuing party to make up.

It is now late in the afternoon, and a council of war is held to decide whether, with all the return journey before us, it is safe to still attempt the peak. We have no experience in descending mountains, and, therefore, we cannot calculate the time required. The trail to the camp is quite unknown to us, and there is always the possibility of accident. Besides, while the climbing is not excessively steep, the going has become very difficult, for the slope is now one mass of scree, so that the whole face of the mountain moves with every step.