On August 3rd, 1897, it was my good fortune to be a member of the party that made the first ascent of Mt. Lefroy.
During this trip, from Abbot pass and the summit of Lefroy, we gained splendid views of the grim cliffs and lofty summit of the great "Chieftain." I think some of the party must have felt, even at this time, a strong desire to conquer so fine a peak.
I made a rapid trip through the Canadian mountains in the summer of 1899, but had little opportunity for climbing. Through the courtesy of my friend, Professor Fay, however, I was able to join him in the first ascent of Mt. Dawson. When I returned to the Canadian Alps in the summer of 1903, prepared for serious climbing, I found that four of the most notable peaks remained unclimbed: Mts. Hungabee, Deltaform, Goodsir, and Biddle.
After the "Conquest of Mt. Goodsir"' on July 16th, I returned to Lake Louise, and with Christian and Hans Kaufmann prepared for an attack on Mt. Hungabee. It may be remembered that Mr. Thompson and Mr. Weed, with Hans Kaufmann as guide, had made a gallant attempt on the mountain some time before this, but when near the summit the climbing became so difficult that they were compelled to turn back. For a long time, and from many points of view Christian told me he had carefully studied the mountain and decided on what should be the exact route of ascent. While the lower portion of this route probably presented considerably greater difficulties than the one
