WINDOW SASHES AND CASEMENTS.
Sash Frame.
For the present purpose it will be supposed that a window frame and sashes are to be made entirely by hand, no machine-prepared material being used. The sash frame is shown by Figs. 1310 to 1312, and it will also be assumed that a rod has been set out, as explained and illustrated on p. 294, containing the two sections (Figs. 1310 and 1312). It will be noticed that the pulley stiles are drawn in line with the brick reveal, and the head in line with the head of the brick opening. When thus arranged, the size of the opening in the brickwork affords the necessary data for setting out the size of the frame.
Materials. — The first thing to do is to take off the quantities of the stuff required for the job: the lengths of the upright pieces will be taken from the vertical section, and their widths and thicknesses from the plan; and the lengths of the horizontal pieces will be found on the plan, and their widths and thicknesses on the vertical section. Cut the stuff for the inside and outside linings 1½ in. longer than as shown on the height rod, so that when nailed on they will run over each end. Linings are usually arranged so that two of equal width may be cut out of a 9-in. board; the head linings should be cut ½ in. longer than the clear length between the pulley stiles; and the head and sill should be each 2 in. or 3 in. longer than the width of the frame over all. When fitting up, the horns should be left on, as they are sometimes handy for fixing, and, if not required, they can always be cut off. The length of the pulley stiles should be equal to the distance from the top of the head to the weathering of the sill; and the width should be ⅞ in. more than the clear width between the linings, which allows for two ⅜-in. tongues and ⅛ in. for shooting. The length of the back lining should be taken from the under side of the head to the weathering of the sill, the width being ¼ in. more than from the inside of one lining to the outside of the other. The parting slips should be of similar length, and 1¾ in. by ¼ in. in section; the parting beads, also of the same length, should be prepared out of ½-in. by 1-in. stuff; the two upright inside or guard beads, of the same length, should be 1⅛ in. wide, and prepared out of ¾-in. by 1¼-in. stuff. The head and sill beads should be a little longer than the clear width between the pulley stiles, the sill bead to be ¼ in. wider to allow for bevelling. For the sashes, cut all the stuff the exact width, so that no labour is lost in shooting off superfluous material. Sashes require at least 1/16 in. play, and if they are made to exact width, there will be still sufficient material to allow for fitting. The stiles should be 1½ in. longer than required, and the rails ½ in. Cut the bottom rail ⅜ in. wider than the finished size, to allow for the splay. A careful workman will form the splay to fit the sill before gluing up the sash. Do not overlook the brackets or horns on the stiles of the upper sash.
Preparing the Stuff. — The side and head linings should be faced on their best sides, shot on their best edges, and gauged to thickness for 1½ in. from their face edges; the remaining portion of the back sides, being hidden in the casing, need not be planed, except when the lining is considerably thicker than required, then it must be either thicknessed the whole breadth or rebated out to the distance of the back of the pulley stile, otherwise the shoulder formed on the edge of the stile by the rebate for tongue would require to be splayed, and much time would be lost in
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