Page:Charles von Hügel (1903 memoir).djvu/109

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valley of Cashmere by the Pass of Pir Punjal. He was unfortunate in the season; the cold of winter disabled his Indian followers and added to his difficulties.

At Sirinaghur, the capital of Cashmere, he fell in with our countryman Mr Godfrey Vigne, with whom he subsequently travelled to Attock, and through the Punjab to Lahore. One of the great peculiarities of Cashmere is the absence of storms and wind; probably owing to the sequestered position of the valley, surrounded by ranges of lofty mountains. From Sirinaghur, Baron Hügel and Mr Vigne visited the eastern portion of the valley as far as Islamabad, near which was one of the summer palaces of the Emperors of Delhi, situated on the banks of the Jylum. This river is navigable throughout almost the whole length of the valley of Cashmere. After a short delay, Baron Hügel quitted the capital in company with Mr Vigne and Dr Henderson, and proceeded to visit the Wallar Lake, near the north-west extremity of the valley, whence they ascended the mountain-barrier 7000 feet above Cashmere. Beyond this lake the current of the Jylum increases, and on reaching the Baramulla Pass, by which our travellers proposed descending to Attock, it becomes a rapid stream. This pass is the boundary of Cashmere; a rapid descent leads, amidst scenery of the wildest description, following the windings of the river, to Muzafferabad, 3000 feet below Cashmere. A fatiguing and dangerous journey over a wild country brought them from thence to Attock. On many occasions the zeal with which Baron Hügel pursued his investigations in botany and natural history exposed him to much danger from the prejudices of the natives, aroused by his killing birds which were held sacred by them[1]. At

  1. "The energy and ardour with which he pursued his researches is exemplified by the following anecdote. He was on one occasion bent on