finally forbidden to the clergy of the English Church by the unratified canons of 1571 (Report of the sub-committee of Convocation, 1908).
See du Cange, Glossarium, s. “Almucia”; Joseph Braun, Die liturgische Gewandung, p. 359, &c. (Freiburg im Breisgau, 1907); also the bibliography to the article Vestments.
ALNAGE, or Aulnage (from Fr. aune, ell), the official supervision
of the shape and quality of manufactured woollen cloth.
It was first ordered in the reign of Richard I. that “woollen
cloths, wherever they are made, shall be of the same width, to
wit, of two ells within the lists, and of the same goodness in the
middle and sides.” This ordinance is usually known as the
Assize of Measures or the Assize of Cloth. Article 35 of Magna
Carta re-enacted the Assize of Cloth, and in the reign of Edward I.
an official called an “alnager” was appointed to enforce it.
His duty was to measure each piece of cloth, and to affix a stamp
to show that it was of the necessary size and quality. As, however,
the diversity of the wool and the importation of cloths of
various sizes from abroad made it impossible to maintain any
specific standard of width, the rules as to size were repealed in
1353. The increased growth of the woollen trade, and the
introduction of new and lighter drapery in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, compelled a revision of the old standards. A statute
was passed in 1665 creating the office of alnager of the new
drapery, and defining the sizes to which cloth should be woven.
The object of the statute was to prevent people being deceived
by buying spurious woollen cloth, and to provide against fraud
and imposition. Owing to the introduction of the alternative
standard, a distinction arose between “broadcloth” (cloth of
two yards) and “streit” or “strait” (narrow cloth of one yard).
The meaning now attached to broadcloth, however, is merely
that of material of superior quality. Alnage duties and the office
of alnager were abolished in 1699.
See W. J. Ashley, Economic History; and W. Cunningham, Growth of English Industry and Commerce.
ALNWICK, a market-town and the county-town of Northumberland,
England, in the Berwick-upon-Tweed parliamentary
division, 309 m. N. by W. from London, on a branch of the
North Eastern railway. Pop. of urban district (1901) 6716.
It is beautifully situated on the small river Aln, in a hilly district.
Its history has left many marks. Dominating the town from
an eminence above the south bank of the river stands the castle,
held by the Percys since 1309, and long before this an important
border stronghold. A gateway of c. 1350, a fine Norman arch
of the middle of the 12th century, and the ancient well in the
keep, are among noteworthy ancient portions; but the castle
was extensively renovated and altered in the second half of the
18th century, while in 1854, when the lofty Prudhoe tower was
built, a scheme of decoration in Italian style was adopted in the
interior; so that the castle, though magnificent, has largely
lost its historic character. It contains numerous fine examples
of the works of Italian and other artists, and collections of British
and Roman and Egyptian antiquities. In the beautiful park are
a monument commemorating the capture of William the Lion
of Scotland when besieging the town in 1174, two memorial
towers, and a British stone chamber. Remains of the wall which
formerly surrounded Alnwick are visible, and one of the four
gates, the Bondgate, stands, dating from the early part of the
15th century. The church of St Michael has Norman remains,
but is principally Perpendicular; it contains several ancient
monuments and incised slabs. The modern church of St Paul
has a fine east window of German stained glass. Within the
confines of the park are ruins of two abbeys. Alnwick Abbey
was a Premonstratensian foundation of 1147; only a gateway
tower stands, but the ground-plan was excavated in 1884 and
is outlined on the surface. At 3 m. from the town are more
extensive remains of Hulne Abbey (1240), an early Carmelite
monastery. The long narrow church remains unroofed; there
are also a gateway tower, and portions of the chapter-house and
cloisters. The Norman chapel of the hospital of St Leonard,
which, as well as Alnwick Abbey, was founded by Eustace
FitzJohn, completes the series of antiquities in Alnwick. In this
interesting locality, however, there must be mentioned the
mansion of Howick, built in the 18th century, in a fine situation
near the coast to the N.E. Not far from this, overlooking the
sea from a rocky cliff pierced by deep gullies, are the ruins of
Dunstanborough Castle; it dates from the 14th century, though
the site was probably occupied as a stronghold from earlier
times.
The chief industries are brewing, tobacco, snuff and fishing-tackle making, and corn milling. Alnwick is under an urban district council, but is a borough by prescription, and its freemen form a body corporate without authority over the affairs of the town. It is, however, required to pay, under an act of 1882, a sum not less than, £500 out of the corporate property towards the upkeep of corporation schools. An ancient peculiar ceremony was attached until modern times to the making of freemen; those elected were required to ride in procession to a large pool called Freemen’s Well and there rush through the water. According to tradition the observance of this custom was enjoined by King John to punish the inhabitants, the king having lost his way and fallen into a bog owing to the neglected condition of the roads in the neighbourhood.
According to the Chronicle of Alnwick Abbey, the barony of Alnwick belonged before the Conquest to Gilbert Tyson, whose son and heir William was killed at Hastings, and whose estates with his daughter were granted by the king to Ivo de Vescy, although this theory does not seem probable since Gilbert Tyson was certainly not a Saxon. In 1297 William de Vescy, a descendant of Ivo, dying without issue, left the barony to the bishop of Durham, who in 1309 sold it to Sir Henry Percy, in whose family it still continues. The town evidently grew up round the castle, which is said to have been built by Eustace FitzJohn about 1140. Tradition states that it received its borough charter from King John. However, Alnwick is first definitely mentioned as a borough in a charter given by William de Vescy in the reign of Henry II., by which the burgesses were to have common of pasture on Haydon Moor and to hold of him “as freely and quietly as the burgesses of Newcastle hold of the king.” This charter was confirmed by his grandson, William de Vescy, in an undated charter, and again by William, son of the latter William, in 1290. According to an inquiry of 1291 a market and fair were held in Alnwick from time immemorial. In 1297 Edward I., in addition, granted the bishop of Durham a market on Saturday, and a fair on the 17th of March and six following days. By charters of Henry VI. the burgesses received licence to enclose their town with a wall, to have a free port at Alnmouth, a market on Wednesday as well as Saturday, and two new fairs on the feasts of SS Philip and James and St Lucy, and eight days following each. Tanning and weaving were formerly the principal industries carried on in Alnwick, and in 1646 there were twenty-two tanneries there. Alnwick has never been represented in parliament.
See George Tate, The History of the Borough, Castle, and Barony of Alnwick, 2 vols. (Alnwick, 1866–1869); Victoria County History, Northumberland.
ALOE, a genus of plants belonging to the natural order Liliaceae, with about 90 species growing in the dry parts of Africa, especially Cape Colony, and in the mountains of tropical Africa. Members of the closely allied genera Gasteria and Haworthia, with a similar mode of growth, are also cultivated and popularly known as aloes. The plants are apparently stemless, bearing a rosette of large, thick, fleshy leaves, or have a shorter or longer (sometimes branched) stem, along which, or towards the end of which and its branches, the generally fleshy leaves are borne. They are much cultivated as ornamental plants, especially in public buildings and gardens, for their stiff, rugged habit. The leaves are generally lance-shaped with a sharp apex and a spiny margin; but vary in colour from grey to bright green, and are sometimes striped or mottled. The rather small tubular yellow or red flowers are borne on simple or branched leafless stems. and are generally densely clustered. The juice of the leaves of certain species yields aloes (see below). In some cases, as in Aloe venenosa, the juice is poisonous. The plant called American
