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OCEAN AND OCEANOGRAPHY
985

seas, where tidal currents run strong, there is a general mixing together of the surface and deeper water, thus making the arrangement of vertical temperature anathermic in summer and katathermic in winter, while at the transitional periods in spring and autumn it is practically homothermic. Thus at Station E2 of the international series at the mouth of the English Channel in 49° 27′ N., 4° 42′ W., the following distribution of temperature F. has been observed by Matthews:—

 August 
1904.
 November 
1904.
 February 
1905.
May
 1905. 





 Surface  63.7°  56.2°  50.7°   51.3° 
 16½ fathoms  55.5 56.5 50.8 50.5
 52 fathoms 55.4 56.5 50.8 50.5

It is noticeable that there is a marked vertical temperature gradient only at the end of summer when a warm surface layer is formed, though in August 1904 that was only 8 fathoms thick. In small nearly land-locked basins shut off from one another by bars rising to within a short distance of the surface and affected both by strong tidal currents and by a considerable admixture of land water, the contrasts of vertical distribution of temperature with the seasons are strongly marked, and there are also great unperiodic changes effected mainly by wind, as is shown by the investigations of H. R. Mill in the Clyde Sea Area, and of O. Pettersson, J. Hjort and Helland-Hansen in the Scandinavian fjords.

Sea Ice.—The freezing-point of sea-water is lower as the salinity increases and normal sea-water of 35 per mille salinity freezes at 28.6° F. Experience shows that sea-water can be cooled considerably below the freezing-point without freezing if there is no ice or snow in contact with it. Freezing takes place by the formation of pure ice in flat crystalline plates of the hexagonal system, which form in perpendicular planes and unite in bundles to form grains so that a thick covering of ice exhibits a fibrous structure. It is only the water that freezes; the dissolved salts are excluded in the process in a regular order according to temperature. At temperatures about 17° F. sodium sulphate is the first ingredient of the salts to separate out, potassium chloride follows at 12° F., sodium chloride at −7.4° F., magnesium chloride at −28.5° F., and, as O. Pettersson was the first to point out, calcium chloride not until −67° F. During the rapid formation of ice the still unfrozen brine is often imprisoned between the little plates of frozen water; hence without some special treatment sea-ice is not suitable as a source of drinking water. After long continued frost the last of the included brine may be frozen and the salts driven out in crystals on the surface; these crystals are known to polar explorers by the Siberian name of rassol. Ice is a very poor conductor of heat and accordingly protects the surface of the water beneath from rapid cooling; hence new-formed pancake ice does not increase excessively in thickness in one winter, and even in the centre of the Arctic Basin the ice-covering only amounts to 6 or at most 9 ft. in the course of a year, while in the Antarctic regions the season's growth is only half as great; in the latter also the accumulated snow is an important factor in the thickness of the ice, and snow is an even worse conductor of heat. The influence of wind and tide breaks up the frozen surface of the sea, and sheets yielding to the pressures slide over or under one another and are worked together into a hummocky ice-pack, the irregularities on the surface of which, caused by repeated fractures and collisions, may be from 10 to 20 ft. high. Such formations, termed toross by the Russians, may extend under water, according to Makaroff's investigations, to at least an equal depth. Such old sea-ice when prevented from escaping forms the palaeocrystic sea of Nares; but, as a rule, it is carried southward in the East Greenland and Labrador currents, and melted in the warmer seas of lower latitudes. In the southern hemisphere the ice-pack forms a nearly continuous fence around the Antarctic continent. Pack-ice forms regularly in the inner part of the Baltic every winter, but not in the Norwegian fjords. Even in the Mediterranean sea-ice is formed annually in the northern part of the Black Sea, and more rarely in the Gulf of Salonica and at the head of the Adriatic off Triest. Hudson Bay is blocked by ice for a great part of the year, and the Gulf of St Lawrence is blocked every winter. Ice also clothes the continental shores of the northern fringing seas of eastern Asia. In addition to sea-ice, icebergs which are of land origin occur at sea. In the north, icebergs break off, as a rule, from the ends of the great glaciers of Greenland, and in the far south from the edge of the great Antarctic ice-barrier. The latter often gives birth to prodigious icebergs and ice islands, which are carried northward by ocean currents, nearly as far as the tropical zone before they melt. Thus in December 1906, an iceberg was seen off the mouth of the La Plata in 38° S., and in 1840 one was seen near Cape Agulhas in 35° S. The Antarctic icebergs are of tabular form and much larger than those of Greenland, but in either case an iceberg rising to 200 ft. above sea-level is uncommon, and one exceeding 300 ft. is very rare. The Greenland icebergs are carried by the Labrador current across the great banks of Newfoundland, where they are often very numerous in the months from February to August, when they constitute a danger to shipping as far south as 40° N. No icebergs occur in the North Pacific, and none has ever been reported nearer the coasts of Europe than off the Orkney Islands, and there only once, in 1836.

Oceanic Circulation.—Although observations on marine currents were made near land or between islands even in antiquity, accurate observations on the high seas have only been possible since chronometers furnished a practicable method of determining longitude, i.e. from the time of Cook, the circumnavigator. The difference between the position as determined astronomically and by dead-reckoning gives an excellent idea of the general direction and velocity of the surface currents. The first comprehensive study of the currents of the Atlantic was that carried out by James Rennell (1790-1830), and since that time Findlay in his Directories, Heinrich Berghaus, Maury and the officials of the various Hydrographic Departments have produced increasingly accurate descriptions of the currents of the whole ocean, largely from material supplied by merchant captains. Direct observations of currents in the open sea are difficult, and even when the ship is anchored the veering and rolling of the vessel produce disturbances that greatly affect the result. Such current—meters as those used by Aimé in 1841 and by Irminger since 1858 only gave the direction of the deeper current by comparison with the surface current at the time of observation. Later apparatus, such as Pettersson's bifilar current-meter or his more recent electric-photographic apparatus, and Nansen and Ekman's propeller current-meter, measure both the direction and the velocity at any moderate depth from an anchored vessel. One of the indirect methods of investigating currents is by taking account of the initial temperature of the current and following it by the thermometer throughout its course; hence the familiar contrast between warm and cold currents, of which the Gulf Stream and the Labrador current are types. Benjamin Franklin in 1775 and Charles Blagden in 1781, by means of numerous observations of temperature made on board the packets plying on the Atlantic passage, determined the boundaries of these two currents and their seasonal variations with considerable precision. The differences of salinity support this method, and, especially in the northern European seas, often prove a sharper criterion of the boundaries than temperature itself; this is especially the case at the entrance to the Baltic. Evidence drawn from drift-wood, wrecks or special drift bottles is less distinct but still interesting and often useful; this method of investigation includes the use of icebergs as indicators of the trend of currents and also of plankton, the minute swimming or drifting organisms so abundant at the surface of the sea.

The general lines of the currents of the oceans are fairly well understood, and along the most frequented ocean routes the larger seasonal variations have also been ascertained. The general scheme of ocean currents depends on the prevailing