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THE END OF THE INDIAN EMPIRE
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and cure of so long ago. It was impossible to read in the jolting carriage, and we could only draw rugs and razais about us and watch the drear landscape roll by as the trucks thundered over the dusty road-bed. The groups on station platforms grew more pinched and more uncomfortable-looking, with cotton clothes more and more voluminous in cut, and streaming with more and more loose ends of extra drapery, as we ran on through the frosty, hazy glow of a sudden yellow sunset that, glorifying the white peaks of Kashmir, faded quickly to a green and a hyacinthine sky, and then to the blackness of winter night. The one weary lamp in the carriage did not give light enough for us to read and lay to heart the several framed ordinances which the government railway holds up to travelers. Evidently there is a "dog question" in British India equal to the "cow question" in the Hindu and Mohammedan circles. "His Excellency the Governor-General in Council" had first to rule:


DOGS IN CARRIAGES

Passengers will not be allowed to take any dog into a passenger carriage, except with the permission of the Station Master at the starting station, and also with the consent of their fellow passengers, and then only on payment of a double fare for each dog, subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected to, no refund being given. This rule does not apply to dogs conveyed in reserved compartments, or carriages, or in private special trains. The number of dogs to be taken into a reserved compartment must not exceed three.