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JEYPORE
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comed us to the company of wedding guests, and we assisted at several such interludes. There was the palace to see—a modern, tawdry, semi-European affair of much plaster-work, mirrors, and gilding. The carpets were rolled up in the throne-room of the beautiful Audience Hall, the furniture covered with brown holland, and the state treasurer, cross-legged between two accountants, occupied it for the day while he paid off the palace servants. We were led down the long marble paths of the formal garden to see—a billiard-room. But we saw, on the way, the myriad-bay-windowed walls of the zenana, which greatly resembled the street fronts of San Francisco hotels. We saw the palace stables and two aged elephants eating grass; and later in the day went to "the lion and tiger museum" to see two real, live unicorns. "See," said our bearer, "with how very loose skins these unicorns are," as he led us to the rhinoceroses' cage.

There were the regular, cut-and-dried tourists' shops filled with crudely made weapons, rough brasses and potteries, for which gullible folk pay twice the London price; and one such proprietor met us at the door with his visitors' book and insisted that we should read the praises of himself, his wares, and the Indian tiffin he serves good patrons, written but the day before by some young travelers from New York. He dilated upon the virtues of Americans, and showed us the boxes and boxes of trumpery stuff bought by those tourists; and it was great comfort to us, the worthy poor, that we were not as the millionaires are—to be taken in by Brummagem