then set them aside to harden (this occupies a few minutes); roll out the stalks, getting them nicely rounded, and then put all together in readiness for transfer to pot or vase, arranging them as you would a natural group of flowers.
To make the petals adhere, hold them for a moment to the flame of a candle or match. When slightly softened at the base, lay them down on a small piece of gutta-percha, about the size of a shilling, and overlapping, or not, as in nature. Press them together with the pliers or with the paper knife, heating the tool by dipping it into the hot water for a few minutes. Some find it easier to mould the stems over fine wire, such as is used for tissue paper flowers, but a skilful worker will dispense with this. It must be remembered that the flowers should all appear as if modelled on the vase or other object to be decorated. A good liquid glue or cement can be used to make the decorations adhere more firmly.
Be careful to put in stamens boldly, but avoid too fine details, as that tends to cut up the work, and is unnecessary; press them back well into the centre, and do not omit the pistil. Study simplicity in the arrangement of groups, and carefully copy the natural growth of the flowers. Beginners generally err here, if they have not sufficiently observed and studied nature. The vases or pots may be in terra-cotta, earthenware salt jars, or the little brown jars usually used for culinary purposes—these last are most inexpensive, and answer admirably. When the group is quite hard and dry, hold the flowers to the lighted candle separately, and quickly apply them to the vase, taking care that there is no moisture between them, for this will surely prevent their adhering. Leave the work to stand until it has become firmly fixed to the vase, and then begin the painting.
First lay on a thin coat of flake white (oils) mixed with
