FOKMATION OF GAIIDEN.] HORTICULTURE 219 760 feet from east to west, and 440 feet from north to south, is nearly of the same proportions. Slips. The spaces between the walls and the outer fence are c.illed slips. A considerable extent is sometimes thus enclosed, and utilized for the growth of such vegetables as potatoes, winter greens, and sea-kale, for the small bush fruits, and for strawberries. The slips are also convenient as affording a variety of aspects, and thus helping to pro long the season of particular vegetable crops. Shelter. 4. Skelter. A screen of some kind to temper the fury of the blast is absolutely necessary. If the situation is not naturally well sheltered, the defect may be remedied by masses of forest trees disposed at a considerable distance so as not to shade the walls or fruit trees. They should not be nearer than say 50 yards, and may vary from that to 100 or 150 yards distance according to circumstances, regard being had especially to peculiarities occasioned by the configuration of the country, as for instance to aerial currents from adjacent eminences. Care should be taken, however, not to hem in the garden by crowded plantations, shelter from the prevailing strong winds being all that is required, while the more open it is in other directions the better. The trees employed for screens should include both those of deciduous and of evergreen habit, and should suit the peculiarities of local soil and climate. Of deciduous trees the sycamore, wych-elm, horse-chestnut, beech, lime, plane, and poplar may be used, the Populus canadeusis nova being one of the most rapid-growing of all trees, and, like other poplars, well-suited for nursing other choicer subjects ; while of evergreens, the holm oak, holly, laurel (both common and Portugal), and such conifers as the Scotch, Weymouth, and Austrian pines, with spruce and silver firs and yews, are suitable. The conifers niiike the most effective screens. Extensive gardens in exposed situations are often divided into compartments by hedges, so disposed as to break the force of high winds. Where these are required to be narrow as well as lofty, holly, yew, or beech is to be preferred ; but, if there is sufficient space, the beautiful laurel and the bay may be employed where they will thrive. Smaller hedges may be formed of evergreen privet, or of tree-box. These subordinate divisions furnish, not only shelter, but also shade, which, at certain seasons, is peculiarly valuable. Belts of shrubbery may be placed round the slips out side the walls ; and these may in many cases, or in certain parts, be of sufficient breadth to furnish pleasant retired promenades, at the same time that they serve to mask the formality of the walled gardens, and are made to harmonize with the picturesque scenery of the pleasure ground. fater 5. Water Sup/Jy. Although water is one of the most ipply- important elements in vegetable life, we do not find one garden in twenty where even ordinary precautions have been taken to secure a competent supply. Rain-water is the best, next to that river or pond water, and last of all that from springs ; but a chemical analysis should be made of the last before introducing it, as some spring waters contain mineral ingredients injurious to vegetation. Iron pipes are the best conductors ; they should lead to a capacious open reservoir placed outside the garden, and at the highest convenient level, in order to secure suf ficient pressure for effective distribution, and so that the wall trees also may be effectually washed. Stand pipes should be placed at intervals beside the walks and in other convenient places from which water may at all times be drawn ; and short flexible tubes should be made to fit on to them, to which a garden hose can be attached, so as to permit of the whole garden being readily and when neces sary profusely watered. The mains should be placed under the walks for safety, and also that they may be easily reached when repairs are required. Pipes should also be laid having a connexion with all the various greenhouses and forcing-houses, each of which should be provided with a cistern for aerating the daily supplies. In fact, every part of the garden, including the working sheds and offices, should have water supplied without stint. At the same time it is not expedient to admit of large basins or ponds, and far less of a running stream in a garden. 6. Approach and Fence. The entrance to the garden En- from without is a matter requiring the exercise of some trancei taste and of sound judgment If possible, it should be from the south and front, so that the pleasing effect of the range of glazed houses may be realized by the visitor on entering. Sometimes a lateral entrance, leading from the flower- garden through an intermediate shrubbery, and coming upon the hot-houses in flank, may be necessary. The worst of all entrances is from the back or north, everything being then viewed in reverse. All gardens of large extent should be encircled by an En- outer boundary, which is often formed by a sunk wall or closun ha-ha surrounded by an invisible wire fence to exclude ground game, or consists of a hedge with low wire fence on its inner side. Occasionally this sunk wall is placed on the exterior of the screen plantations, and walks lead through the trees, so that views are obtained of the adjacent country. Although the interior garden receives its form from the walls, the ring fence and plantations may be adapted to the shape and surface of the ground. In smaller country gardens the enclosure or outer fence is often a hedge, and there is possibly no space enclosed by walls, but some divisional wall having a suitable aspect is utilized for the growth of peaches, apricots, <fcc., and the hedge merely separates the garden from a paddock used for grazing. The still smaller gardens of villas are generally bounded by a wall or wood fence, the inner side of which is appropriated to fruit trees. For the latter, walls are much more convenient and suitable than a boarded fence, but in general these are too low to be of much value as aids to cultivation, and they are best covered with bush fruits or with ornamental plants of limited growth. 7. Walks and Edgings. The best material for the con- Walk struction of garden walks is good binding gravel. The ground should be excavated to the depth of a foot or more, the bottom being made firm and slightly concave, so that it may slope to the centre, where a drain should be intro duced ; or the bottom may be made convex and the water allowed to drain away at the sides. The bottom 9 inches should be filled in compactly with hard coarse materials, such as stones, brickbats, clinkers, burned clay, &c., on which should be laid two or three inches of coarse gravel, and then an inch or two of firm binding gravel on the surface. The surface of the walks should be kept well rolled, for nothing contributes more to their elegance and durability. All the principal lines of walk should be broad enough to allow at least three persons to walk abreast ; the others may be narrower, but a multitude of narrow walks has a puny effect. Much of the neatness of walks depends upon the material of which they are made. Gravel from an inland pit is to be preferred ; though occasionally very ex cellent varieties are found upon the sea-coast. The gravels of Kensington and Blackhoath have attained considerable celebrity, and have been frequently employed in remote parts of the kingdom, the expense being lessened by their being cimveyed to different sea-ports as ballast for ships. Gravel walks must be kept free from weeds, either by hand weeding, by occasionally salting the surface, or by watering with boiling salt water. In some parts of the country the available material does not bind to form a close even surface, and such walks are kept clean by hoeing.
Grass walks were common in English gardens during the
