Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 18.djvu/660

630 PERSIA [GEOGRAPHY. admitted, be it understood that it indicates a grosser kind of pro cedure than that which, at the present day, is known to the higher classes. It is a common custom on the arrival at the gate of a town of a distinguished traveller for some duly appointed official to strike off the head of a sheep, and roll it, with the blood drip ping, across the path of the new-comer. Morier gives a revolting illustration of the length to which this ceremony was carried on the arrival of the shah at the halting -place of Morchikar. The head man of the village went so far as to strip his own son naked from the waist upwards, and, having tied the lad s hands behind his back, to lift his knife as though to cut the victim s throat. The conclusion of the story is not told ; but it is to be hoped that the shah exercised his prerogative of preventing any evil results. Costume, Costume. The costume 1 of the Persians may be shortly described as fitted to their active habits. The men invariably wear an un starched shirt of cotton, sewn with white silk, often, particularly in the south of Persia, elaborately embroidered about the neck. It fastens in front by a flap, having two small buttons or knots at the left shoulder, and seldom comes below the hips. It has no collar, and the sleeves are loose. The lower orders often have it dyed blue ; but the servant and upper classes always prefer a white shirt. Silk shirts are now seldom seen on men. Among the very religious during the mourning month (" Muharram ") the shirt is at times dyed black. The "zfr -jamah," or trousers, are of cloth among the higher classes, particularly those of the military order, who affect a garment of a tightness approaching that worn by Europeans. The ordinary " zfr- jamah " are of white, blue, or red cotton, very loose, and are exactly similar to the " pai-jamahs " worn by Europeans in India. They arc held up by a thin cord of red or green silk or cotton round the waist, and the labouring classes, when engaged in heavy or dirty work, or when running, generally tuck the end of these garments under the cord, which leaves their legs bare and free to the middle of the thigh. The amplitude of this part of his attire enables the Persian to sit without discomfort on his heels ; chairs are only used by the rich, great, or Europeanized. Over the shirt and "zir-janiah" comes the "arkhalik," generally of quilted chintz or print, a closely-fitting garment, collarless, with tight sleeves to the elbow, whence, to the wrist, are a number of little metal buttons, fastened in winter, but not in summer. Above this is the "kamarchin," a tunic of coloured calico, cloth, Kashmir or Karnian shawl, silk, satin, or velvet (gold embroidered, or otherwise), according to the time of year and the purse and position of the wearer. This, like the " arkhalik," is open in front, and shows the shirt. It sometimes has a small standing collar, and is double-breasted. It has a pocket-hole on either side, giving access to the pockets which are always in the "arkhalik," where also is the breast-pocket in which watch, money, jewels, and seals are kept. The length of the "kamarchin" denotes the class of the wearer. The military and official classes and the various servants wear it short, to the knee, while fops and sharpers wear it even shorter. Priests, merchants, villagers, especially about Shiraz, townsmen, shopkeepers, doctors, and lawyers wear it very long, often nearly to the heels. Over the " kamarchin " is worn the " kulajah," or coat. This is, as a rule, cast off in summer, save on formal occasions, and is often borne by a servant, or carried over the shoulder by the owner. It is of cloth, shawl, or camel-hair cloth and is lined with silk or cloth, flannel or fur. It has, like the Turkish frockcoat, a very loose sleeve, with many plaits behind. It has lapels, as with us, and is trimmed with gold lace, shawl, or fur, or is worn quite plain. It has a roll collar and false pockets. Besides these garments there are others : the long "jubba," or cloth cloak, worn by"mirzas" (secretaries), Government employes of high rank, as ministers, farmers of taxes, courtiers, physicians, priests ; the "abba," or camel-hair cloak of the Arab, worn by tra vellers, priests, and horsemen ; the "pustin," or Afghan skin-cloak, used by travellers and the sick or aged ; the "nimtan," or common sheepskin jacket, with short sleeves, used by shopkeepers and the lower class of servants, grooms, &c., in winter ; the "yapanjah," or woollen Kurdish cloak, a kind of felt, having a shaggy side, of immense thickness, worn generally by shepherds, who use it as greatcoat, bed, and bedding. There is also the felt coat of the villager, very warm and inexpensive, the cost being from 5 to 15 krans (a kran = 1-Od. ). The " kamarband," or girdle, is also charac teristic of class. It is made of muslin, shawl, or cotton cloth among the priests, merchants, bazaar people, the secretary class, and the more aged Government employes. In it are carried, by literati and merchants, the pen -case and a roll of paper ; its voluminous folds are used as pockets ; by the bazaar people and villagers, porters and merchants servants, a small sheath knife is stuck in it ; while by "farrashes," the carpet - spreader class, a large "khanjar," or curved dagger, with a heavy ivory handle, is carried. The headgear is very distinctive. The turban worn by priests is generally white, consisting of many yards of muslin. When the wearers are " saiyid " of the Prophet, a green turban is worn, also a "kamarband" of green muslin, or shawl or cotton cloth. Merchants generally wear a turban of muslin embroidered in colours, or of a yellow pattern on straw- 1 Dr. Wills s instructive volume again supplies this information. coloured muslin, or of calico, or shawl. The distinctive mark of the courtier, military, and upper servant class is the belt, generally of black varnished leather with a brass clasp ; princes and courtiers often replace this clasp by a huge round ornament of cut stones. The "kuhih," or hat, is of cloth or sheepskin on a frame of paste board. The fashions in hats change yearly. The Ispahan mer chant and the Armenian at times wear the hat very tall. (The waist of the Persian is generally small, and he is very proud of his fine tigure and broad shoulders.) The hair is generally shaved at the crown, or the entire head is shaved, a "kakul," or long thin lock, being sometimes left, often 2 feet long, from the middle of the crown. This is to enable the prophet Muhammad to draw up the believer into paradise. The lower orders generally have the hair over the temporal bone long, and brought in two long locks turning backwards behind the ear, termed "zulf"; the beaux and youths are constantly twisting and combing these. The rest of the head is shaven. Long hair, however, is going out of fashion in Persia, and the more civilized affect the cropped hair worn by Europeans, and even have a part ing in it. The chin is never shaved, save by " beauty men," or "kashangs," though often clipped, while the moustache is usually left long. At forty a man generally lets his beard grow its full length, and cherishes it much ; part of a Persian s religious exercises is the combing of his beard. Socks, knitted principally at Ispahan, are worn ; they are only about 2 inches long in the leg. The rich, however, wear them longer. They are of white cotton in summer and coloured worsted in winter. Villagers only wear socks on state occasions. Shoes are of many patterns. The "urussi," or Russian shoe, is the most common ; next, the " kafsh " or slipper of various kinds. The heel is folded down and remains so. The priests wear a peculiar heavy shoe, with an ivory or wooden lining at the heel. Green shoes of shagreen are common at Ispahan. Blacking is un known to Persians generally. Boots are only used by horsemen, and are then worn much too large for ease. Those worn by couriers often come up the thigh. With boots are worn " shalwars," or baggy riding breeches, very loose, and tied by a string at the ankle ; a sort of kilt is worn by couriers. Pocket-handkerchiefs are seldom used, save by the rich or the Tehranis. Most Persians wear a "shah kulah," or night hat, a loose baggy cap of shawl or quilted material, often embroidered by the ladies. Arms are usually carried only by tribesmen. The natives of the south of Persia and servants carry a " kamniah, " or dirk. The soldiery, on or off duty, always carry one of these or their side- arms, sometimes both. They hack but never thrust with them. On the road the carrying of weapons is necessary. The costume of the women has undergone considerable change in the last century. It is now, when carried to the extreme of fashion, highly indecent and must be very uncomfortable. The garment doing duty as a chemise is called a " pirahan" ; it is, with the lower orders, of white or blue calico, and comes down to the middle of the thigh, leaving the leg nude. Among the upper classes it is frequently of silk. At Shiraz it is often of fine cotton, and elaborately ornamented with black embroidery. With the rich it is often of gauze, and much embroidered with gold thread, pearls, &c. The head is usually covered with a "char-kadd," or large square of embroidered silk or cotton, folded so as to display the corners, and fastened under the chin by a brooch. It is often of consider able value, being of Kashmir shawl, embroidered gauze, &c. A "jika, " a jewelled feather-like ornament, is often worn at the side of the head, while the front hair, cut to a level with the mouth, is brought up in love-locks on either cheek. Beneath the "char- kadd " is generally a small kerchief of dark material, only the edgu of which is visible. The ends of the "char-kadd" cover the shoulders, but the gauze "pirahan" is quite transparent. A pro fusion of jewellery is worn of the most solid description, none hollow ; silver is worn only by the very poor, coral only by negresses. Xeck- laces and bracelets are much affected, and chains with scent-caskets attached, while the arms are covered with clanking glass bangles called "alangu," some twenty even of these being on one arm. Jewelled " Inizubands," containing talismans, arc often worn on the upper arm, while among the lower orders and south Persian or Arab women nose-rings are not uncommon, and bangles or anklets of beads. The face on important occasions is usually much painted, save by young ladies in the heyday of beauty. The colour is very freely applied, the checks being as much riddled as a clown s, and the neck smeared with white, while the eyelashes are marked round with "kuhl." This is supposed to be beneficial to the eyes, and almost every woman uses it. The eyebrows are widened and painted till they appear to meet, while sham moles or stars arc painted on the chin and cheek ; even spangles are stuck at times on the chin and forehead. Tattooing is common among the poor and in villages, and is seen among the upper classes. The hair, though generally hidden by the "char-kadd, " is at times exposed and plaited into innumerable little tails of great length, while a coquettish little skull-cap of embroidery, or shawl, or coloured silk is worn. False hair is common. The Persian ladies hair is very luxuriant, ami never cut ; it is nearly always dyed red with henna, or with indigo