Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 2.djvu/560

500 A RGYLLSHIKE in large masses in the mountains north of Locli Fyne below Inveraray, and again in Davar Island, and at other poiuts ncar Campbeltown. Trap rocks greenstones, dolerites, basalts, claystone porphyries, amygdaloids, and tufas cover great extents both of the mainland and islands. In the west of Lorn they enclose the lower part of Loch Etive, stretching north to Loch Creran, and south nearly to Loch Awe and Loch Melfort From this place, running westward through Kerrcra, they form nine-tenths of Mull and a wide tract on the opposite coast of Morven and Ardnamurchan. The islands of Muck, Eig, Rum, and Canna are more remote outliers of these formations to the north-west, which also form the Treshinish Islands Ulva, Gometra, and Staffa, with its far-famed caves and beautiful columnar cliffs. From their relation to the stratified beds, these rocks evidently belong to a recent period in the history of the earth, many of them not older than the upper tertiary. At that time the west of this county, and especially the island of Mull, had formed the site of active volcanoes, rivalling in extent and activity any now known at least in Europe. The trap rocks in Kintyre connect them with those in central Scotland and the north of Ireland, whilst those in Skye are their continuation to the north. Argyll is not rich in mineral products possessing an economic value. The lead mines of Strontian, in Sunart, produced in 1872 about twelve tons of lead ore. A vein of arsenical nickel was discovered in 1849 by the duke of Argyll near Inveraray. Fine specimens of the harmotome or cross-stone occur at Strontian, of the heliotrope or bloodstone in Rum, and of natrolite, siolezite, stilbite, and other zeolites in the trap-rocks of Mull, Morven, and Lorn. Argyllshire was formerly interspersed with, natural forests, remains of which consisting chiefly of oak, ash, pine, and birch are still visible in the mosses. But, owing to the clearance of the ground for the introduction of sheep, and the neglect of planting, the county is now remark able for its want of wood, except in the neighbourhood of Inveraray, where there are extensive and flourishing planta tions. A great part of the county is unfitted for agricul ture ; but many districts afford fine pasturage for the hill sheep; and some of the valleys as Glendaruel exhibit great fertility. The usual Scottish grains and roots are all more or less grown. The chief branches of industry are the rearing of cattle and sheep, and the herring fishery. The cattle, though of small size, are equal, if not superior, to any other breed in the kingdom, and are in great demand in the markets of the south, to which they are sent in immense num bers. Dairy husbandry is practised to some extent in the southern parts of Kintyre, where there is a large pro portion of arable land. In the higher tracts sheep have very advantageously been substituted for cattle. The black- faced is the species that is now almost universally reared. Argyllshire is an attractive field for the sportsman, its deer forests, grouse-shootings, and salmon-fishings being among the best in Scotland. The rents derived from these sources have greatly increased during the last half century. As examples of these it may be stated, that the deer-forest of Blackmount is let for about 3000 a year, and the salmon-fishing of Ardnamurchan for upwards of 600. Loch Fyne is celebrated for its herring fishery ; but during 1873 and 1874 the shoals have not advanced beyond the Sound of Kilbranuan. The manufactures of Argyllshire are very limited, con sisting solely of whisky and gunpowder ; the former is produced at Campbeltown and in Islay, and the latter at Kames (Kyles of Bute), and at Melfort, Furnace, &c. There were originally only military roads in Argyllshire, but these were gradually supplemented by others formed at the joint expense of Government (by a grant and mainten ance) and the county, by means of assessment under the Road Commissioners consequently there have never been any tolls. The Government grant was withdrawn about 1860, and the roads are now maintained solely by assess ment, which is levied equally on landlords and tenants. By means of steamers there is regular intercourse between various parts of the extensive coast and the Western metropolis. In order to avoid the circuitous passage round the Mull of Kintyre the Crinan Canal was con structed, extending across the isthmus from Ardrishaig to Loch Crinan, a distance of 8 miles ; and another canal unites Campbeltown with Dalavaddy. The Crinan is deep enough for vessels drawing 12 feet of water; its breadth, at the surface is 66 feet, and at the bottom 30, and the passage is interrupted by fifteen locks. There are about twenty bank branches in the county. There are (1875) four weekly newspapers published in Argyllshire. The antiquities of the county comprise monoliths, circles of standing stones, crannoges, and cairns. In almost all the burying grounds as at Campbeltown, Keil, Soroby, Kilchousland there are specimens of sculptured crosses and slabs, many of which are figured in The Sculptured Stones of Scotland, vol. ii., published by the Spalding Club, and Archaeological Sketches in Kintyre, by Capt. T. I White. For other subjects of archaeological interest see The Proc. of Antiq. Soc. of Scotland, vols. iv. vi. viii. Besides the famous ecclesiastical remains at lona, there are ruins of a Cistercian priory in Oronsay, and of a church founded by Somerlid at Saddel. Among castles may be mentioned Dunstaffnage, Ardtornish, Skipness, Kilchurn, Ardchonnel, Dunolly, Dunderaw, and Carrick. The earliest recorded event in the history of Argyllshire is the settlement in the 4th or 5th century of a body of Irish Scots, under the leadership of Ere, who soon ex tended their power and established a dynasty. The most famous of their kings was Aidan, the friend of Columba. In the 8th century the district fell into the hands of Nor wegian adventurers, and continued for five or six hundred years under Norwegian control, till the rise of a deliverer called Somerlid. Along with the Hebridean Isles, all the western parts of Argyll came to the Scottish monarchs by conquest in the 14th century. Some time after, Mac- donald, the representative of this region, obtained leave from the Scottish crown to hold his possessions as a feudatory to that kingdom ; but his turbulent spirit involved him and his family in repeated rebellions. These were at last punished by the forfeiture of the estates, which, along with the titles, were bestowed on the Campbells of Lochow, who have ever since retained them. Colin,, second Lord Campbell, was created earl of Argyll in 1457 ; Archibald, second earl, fell at Flodden ; Archibald, fourth earl, was the first nobleman in Scotland who declared him self a Protestant ; Archibald, fifth earl, is famous as the supporter of Queen Mary ; Archibald, the eighth earl, and other prominent holders of the titles, are noticed in the article immediately preceding. The tenth earl was raised to the dukedom of Argyll in 1701. The title is now (1875) held by a member of the same family, George Douglas Campbell, eighth duke. Like other parts of the Highlands of Scotland, this- county was the seat of several clans, of which the princi pal were the Campbells, the Macleans, the Stewarts of Appin, the Macdonalds of Glencoe, the Macquarries, and the Macdougalls ; and the number of Campbells is still a striking feature of the personal nomenclature of the county. Gaelic is still to a considerable extent the verna cular dialect. The chief proprietors are the duke of Argyll and earl of Breadalbane, whose estates are respec tively 168,000 and 179,000 acres in extent. The other principal estates, according to extent, are those of Poltal- loch (183,000 acres), Islay (67,000), Jura (55,000), Ard namurchan (55,000), Sunart (54,418), Kildalton (54,250), and Ardkinglass (51,670). The total number of owners of land possessing one acre or upwards was, in 1872-73, 581 , and of owners who had less than one acre, 2283. The valued rent of the county for 1874-75 is (exclusive of burghs and canals) 416,543. The valuation of the burghs is Campbeltown, 20,624; Oban, 11,763; In

veraray, 3323. The county returns one member to