Page:Encyclopædia Britannica, Ninth Edition, v. 6.djvu/486

454 COSTUME [CREEK. negative evidence that the word peplos does not occur in the inventory of female dresses on an inscription from Athens in the British Museum, in which the latest date given is 335 B.C. Pollux, it is true (vii. 47), cites it in his list of names for dresses worn by women. Returning to the dress after 450 B.C., we find that the chiton could be tucked up under the girdle til] the skirt reached only to the knees, as in the figures of Artemis. A short linen chiton, reaching half way down the thighs, was called kypassis. The diplo idion, when once made of a separate piece, could have the form of a sleeve less jacket reaching nearly to the knees. A diplo idion worn only in front was called a hemidiplo idion. A chiton worn to leave one breast bare was called heteromaschalos ; worn without a girdle, as by priests and old women, it was orthostadios, or perhaps zoma. The ampechonion appears to have been a small shawl. The kimbarikon was a transparent under-chiton. The following names of dresses are still undetermined kandys or kanduke, epomis, pharos. FlGl 3. -Bronze statuette, i 7 . / 7 wearing Peplos. From phcenole, xystis ^ (xyston), heanos, Ravenn a . Brit. Mus. mandye, ephestrides, and amphiestrides. As regards the covering of the head, that was perhaps most generally accomplished by drawing the himation up over the back of the head like a hood ; or, instead of this, a separate piece of cloth was made to perform this service, the end of it falling under the himation. This was the kalyptra, or veil. A cap merely intended to cover in the hair and hold it together was called kekryphalos. When hats were worn they were of circular shape, and either of some stiff material, as the Thessalian or Boeotian hat (eo-<raAi s KWT}), observed in terra-cottas from Tanagra in Bceotia and in Pompeian paintings, or of pliant material which could be bent down at the sides like the pttasus worn by Atalanta. Similar to this seems to have been the kausia or Macedonian hat. The kyrbasia, or kidaris, was a high pointed hat of Persian origin, as was also the tiara, which served the double purpose of an ornament and a covering for the head. When the object was only to hold up the hair from the neck, the sphendone was used, which, as its name implies, was in the form of a sling ; but in this case it was called more particularly opistho-sphendone, as a distinction from the sphendone when worn in the front of the head. The head ornaments include the diadema, a narrow band bound round the hair a little way back from the brow and temples, and fastened in the knot of the hair behind ; the ampijx, a variety of the diadem ; the stephane, a crown worn over the forehead, its highest point being in the centre, and narrowing at each side into a thin band which is tied at the back of the head. Different from this is the stepha7ios, which is a crown of the same breadth and design all round, as on the coins of Argos with the head of Hera, who is expressly said by Pausanias to wear a Stephanos. This word is also employed for crowns of laurel, olive, or other plant, when the form would be the same all round the head. Crowns made of wicker-work (poloi kalathni] were also worn (see Gerhard, Antike Bildwerke, pis. 303-305). When the hair, as was most usual, was gathered back from the temples and fastened in a knot behind, hair pins were required, and these were mostly of bone or ivory, mounted with gold or plain. So also when the hair was tied in a large knot above the fore head, as in the case of Artemis, or of Apollo as leader of the Muses. The early Athenians wore their hair so, with a pin representing a grasshopper (TC TTI^), in allusion to- their claim of having originally sprung from the soil (Thucyd. i. 6). Whether this knot was the krobylos is not determined. In archaic figures the hair is most frequently arranged over the brow and temples in parallel rows of small curls which must have been kept in their places by artificial means, probably by small spirals of gold wire, such as are found in early Etruscan tombs lying near the head of the skeleton. Ear-rings ( eVoma, e AAd/Jia, eAi/cn^es) of gold, silver, or bronze plaited with gold, and frequently ornamented with pearls, precious stones, or enamel, were worn attached to the lobes of the ear. For necklaces , bracelets (octets), brooches (vrepovat), and finger-rings or cr<paylSes) the same variety and preciousnesa of material was employed. The gold used was always very thin ; the intrinsic value, for example, of tho famous Milo necklace in the British Museum is very slight, while the extraordinary amount of skilled work manship in it would represent a very high value in labour. This is the rule in the best period of Greek art, that the jewellery is of value according to its workmanship; but in later times preciousness of material determined the value. In the earliest jewellery, amber is conspicuous, alternating with pale gold or electrum. For the feet .-the sandal (advoaXov, WStAa) was the usual wear ; in exceptional cases, as for the bath, shoes, and for hunting, high boots were worn. The hunting boot was laced up the front, and reached to the calves. Gloves (cheirides) were worn by the Persians, but apparently never by the Greeks unless to protect the hands when working (Odyssey, xxiv. 230). Male dress. Fig. 4 represents the dress of a Greek citizen, such as it appears, for example, on the frieze of the Parthenon. It consists of nothing more than a hima tion such as that already described for women, but worn differently ; and from the simplicity of this attire it may be seen in how ridi culously awkward a position Blepyrus was placed by his wife s having carried off his himation and shoes (Aris- toph. , Ecdes. , 3 1 sqq. ) But underneath the himation was sometimes also a short linen chiton similar to that worn by armed men under their armour ; and with this chiton on, the himation could be laid aside on occasion. Work men of all kinds wore only a short chiton girt round the waist, and let loose from the right shoulder to leave the arm free. In this case the material varied according to the necessary exposure to Fjo .^Bronze statuette, wearing cold, a fisherman, for ex- Himation. From Greece. Brit amph, having a chiton of Mus. hide, as had also slaves ; but the slave s chiton was more like a jacket with sleeves reaching to the wrist, and corresponding to the oaWtpa as defined by Pollux (vii. 70), who mentions further the /3airr) and oricrvpct as garments of hide worn by peasants in the form of

mantles. The same class of persons wore at other