of ermine going around the neck, but tapering at the waist, a jewelled stomacher beneath; jewelled steeple head-dress made of brocaded silk, sugar-loaf shape; a veil of fine gauze shot with gold fastened to the top and flowing to the ground; the sleeves are close-fitting, the cuff cut up inside the arm, and falling over the hand to the knuckles. The steeple-chase head-dresses were the particular feature of the day. They are described as rolls of linen pointed like steeples, half an ell high, some having a wing at the side called butterflies; the cap was covered with lawn, which fell to the ground, and was tucked under the arm; the dress bodices opened with braces from shoulder to waist, over an under-bodice or stomacher, and ended at the waist; the waistbands were broad, the cuffs deep; many chains about the neck; velvet, silk, damask cloth of gold, costly furs, and striped materials, all worn. The period was illustrated in the Health Exhibition of 1884 by a female figure taken from the King Réne Paris Library. The skirt divided in two down the centre, with gold braid, each half divided again into divisions of pink, or dark blue, gold or white satin, some having diagonal heraldic emblazoning in gold; gold belt round waist where bodice ends; white chemisette with an upright plaiting at neck, and gold necklet; sleeves of pink satin, bordered with gold, tight blue ones beneath, forming a point on either side of the hand; stomacher of white satin crossed with gold; steeple head-dress in gold colour, distended with wire, long veil to feet.
EFFIE DEANS. Short blue or plaid stuff gown with loose Garibaldi of flowered print, the basque coming over the outside of the skirt; leather belt round the waist; the bodice slightly open at the neck; a piece of blue ribbon about the head, but almost hidden by a plaid, which envelopes the figure and head. She carries in her hand a piece of linen she is sewing. (See Plate XIIL., Fig. 49.)
EGYPTIAN. Red under-skirt, with Egyptian hieroglyphics; a white over-dress, caught up on one side by red silk scarf round hips falling in a tabbed end in the exact centre of front, loose full bodice, pendent sleeves; a peplum fastened on the shoulder, worked with the Egyptian honeysuckle; the hair dressed flat; the head-dress like that of the Sphinx, in black and gold, much jewelled, a bird behind it, and coins in front, or a square of cashmere bordered with sequins, secured to forehead by gold band. Or, a turban of white
