EMPIRE (1805-1815). Various kinds of dress prevailed during this period. For a while, a classical style obtained: long flowing skirts, with peplums, the sleeves fastened with three buttons outside the arm; the hair dressed with fillets of gold; this was the evening garb. In the daytime, there were the coal-scuttle bonnets, short waists below the armpits, and other monstrosities. When Josephine reigned at court more graceful attire was adopted; the court dresses were of gold tissue, and velvets covered with gold embroideries; for example, white under-dress of silk, embroidered in gold; green velvet train from waist, worked with gold bordered with ermine; gigot sleeves, studded with bees; long gloves hiding the arm. During a portion of this period, quite short dresses were worn; or pale blue costumes worked in cornflowers; gathered bodice of gold gauze, woven with gold, the waist coming under the armpits, and made with a cape; Indian shawl, fastened on shoulder with the gold ornament of the period; large Tuscan bonnet, with birds of Paradise on the top, and blue ribbon carried on the arm like a basket; or white satin dress, the front of rose du Barry satin, veiled in crêpe, and lisse embroidered in gold; low short-waisted bodice; stomacher of pink, with white and gold embroidery; long white Suède gloves; hair dressed high, rose du Barry plume. Long satin over-skirt, looped up; double-breasted bodice, and cape; tie of lace; large hat. A good costume for a middle-aged woman at fancy ball. (See Plate XIII., Fig. 50.)
ENCHANTRESS. Long skirt of ruby satin, bordered with gold, caught up on one side to show border of mystic characters in black velvet; long black velvet sleeveless robe, opening over ruby vest, covered with gold suns, stars, serpents, and scorpions; striped Oriental scarf round hips; large mantle of dun-coloured cloth, bordered with velvet, attached to shoulders; head-dress, an ibis with outstretched wings, on a scarlet cap, with band of carbuncles; wand with serpents interlaced; heavy gold jewellery. (See Hubbard, Mother and Sorceress).
ENGLAND. Skirt of cream bunting, the lions of England painted on each of the battlements in which the edge of the skirt is cut; the Union Jack and Standard of Scotland draped with Prince of Wales' plumes, ostrich feathers; dark blue velvet bodice, made quite plain, and trimmed with gold
