Page:Fancy dresses described, or, What to wear at fancy balls (1887).djvu/250

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FANCY DRESSES DESCRIBED; OR,

gathered in a knot at the back, worn with a close-fitting linen cap, the strings tied under the chin; shoes and buckles; white stockings, with coloured clocks.

RHEIMS, JACKDAW OF. Short white satin skirt, plain in front with waterfall back, scallopped at the bottom, edged with plaiting of blue satin, in each scallop a round ornament of marabout with ring of turquoise beads in the centre; the upper part of skirt covered with festooned lattice work of narrow gold braid, with turquoise beads at each crossing, forming an apron, having a gold fringe and turquoise tassels; above, a short panier of black satin bordered with gold lace; pointed and square cut bodice; sleeves of black marabout, trimmed with frill of gold lace; at the back of bodice two tabs of marabout mounted on stiff wires, like wings; tail of black net and marabout to edge of skirt; streamers of black satin from each shoulder; turquoise ornaments; powdered hair; head-dress of black feathers, like head of jackdaw, with turquoise ring in beak; black stockings; satin shoes, and gloves; blue fan, jackdaw's head in centre.

RICH AND RARE were the gems she wore. Dress of soft green tulle, powdered with a variety of jewels; gold circlet over flowing hair; staff, with ring at top; a bunch of shamrocks on the front of bodice.

RIDING-DRESS (period of Charles II.). The jacket is made with a basque all round alike, almost as deep as an upper skirt, open at the neck with revers edged by rows of gold or silver braid; the neck is hidden either by a simulated waistcoat of the same material, or by a silk scarf tied once round the neck, the ends laid one over another and pinned down to the waist underneath; this jacket is trimmed with gold or silver braid in a treble row, laid a little from the edge; large square pockets are placed on the outside of the basque in front, and trimmed to match, as also the mousquetaire cuffs of the sleeves. It can be made in satin and velvet, and is worn with a long trained skirt of the same, caught up on one side over a satin petticoat. Sometimes the cuffs and revers of jacket have the same coloured satin under the braid. Large jacket and plume, riding-whip and gauntlet gloves complete the costume; large lace collar. Plum and gold is a good admixture of colour. Riding-Dress (temp. George I.). Broad-brimmed satin or violet velvet hat, with large bows of