Page:Gazetteer of the province of Oudh ... (IA cu31924073057345).pdf/397

LUC 389 The division of labour in the work rivals that in home manufactures ; the wire passes through the hands of five different craftsmen till the mas- sive ingot becomes sparkling thread from which the gossamer-like blossoms of the pattern are composed. These different artists combine their labour to produce the spangle, and numerous others attend on each further stage. The principal products are lachká, kalábatú, and lais or lace. Lachká. -Lachká is a warp of silver gilt bands worked with a woof of silk thread; it varios in breadth from half an inch to an inch; of this mate- rial one másha will be silk, the rest will be silvered wire, if gilt “sawa ratti" of gold willbc expended in a tola of silver, and as there are eight rattis in a másha, and twelve máshas in a tola, one seventy-seventh of the gilt wire will be gold. This material is therefore very rich ; it is sold at the rate of Re. 1-6 and Re. 1-9 per tola. The price has fallen with the demand ; similar qualities prior to annexation used to sell at Re. 1-12. It is like a broad tape of sheet gold, and to enhance its lustre, patterns are stamped upon it in repoussé work of high relief. Having been thus crimped up, it is used as an edging for turbans, for state costumes, and for the dresses worn by dancing girls. It is exported for this purpose to every large city throughout India except to Delhi; which is a rival in the trade, but the Delhi work cannot compare with that of Lucknow either in purity of metal or in delicacy of workmanship. The wages earned are not more than two or three annas per day, and the result of this, as already stated, is that onc rupee of solid silver will be gilt, turned into wire and worked up into a material of exquisite lustre and beauty for six anpas, or 37 per cent. on the bullion, while the most ordinary silversmith's work in England, a simple spoon, will cost as much or more. Kalábatú.- Another material is kalábatíí; this consists of a narrow silver gilt riband twisted spirally round a silk thread. It is then worked up into a tape differing little in appearance from lachká; two yards of this material will weigh a tola ; the labour is similarly slightly remuncrated. Out of Re. 1-8, the price of two yards, only three annas or one-eighth will go to the weaver. Lucknow cannot rival Barhámpur in this particular manufacture. Gold lace.—Lace is a third of the simple forms into which the gilt wire This differs from lachká in that the woof is of wire, not of ribands, and it is double, so that the silk thread of the warp does not appear at all, producing a very gorgeous effect. This lace is very durable, and stands exposure to wet much better than the English manufacturo; it is about half the price, as English gold lace of a quality costing 15 shillings per ounce can be bought in Lucknow at seven and six pence. Lace of various qualities, plain, with conventional or rich flowered pattern can be had at from Re. 1-8 to Rs. 2 the tola, i.e., about four rupees per yard. English lace costs 138, 6d. the yard, and is made on an entirely different method; it is made like kalábatú, already described, and of course is not nearly so durable. Embroidery.--The embroidery is upon velvet and cotton; it imitates flowers and fruits with correctness of outline and gorgeous brilliancy 50 is worked up