that again evenly with about four inches of stiff clay. Pack this down. It will soon squeeze all that foot of straw down to little more than one inch, and will make a warm and water-tight roof. As the clay is very heavy, it is wise, before going inside, to test the roof by jumping on it. If it aves too much, it will be well to add a centre prop.
Now for the door: Hew out planks; two should be enough. Fasten these together with two cross-pieces and one angle-piece, using oak pegs instead of nails, if you wish to be truly primitive. For these the holes should be bored part way with a gimlet, and a peg used larger than the hole. The lower end of the back prolank is left projecting in a point. (Fig. 8.) This point fits to a hole pecked with a point or bored with an auger into the door-sill.
Bore another hole near the top of the door (A), and a corresponding one through the door-jamb between two logs. Set the door in place. A strip of raw-hide leather, a limber willow branch, or a strip of Mckory put through the auger hole of the door and wedged into the hole in the jamb, makes a truly wild-wood hinge. A peg in the front jamb prevents the door going too far out, and a string and peg inside.answer for a latch. The window opening may be closed with a glass sash, with a piece of muslin, or with the raw-hide of an animal, scraped dear of hair and stretched on a frame
It now remains to chink and plaster the place.
Chinking is best done from the inside. Long triangular strips and blocks of wood are driven in between the logs and fastened there with oak pins driven into the lower log till nothing but small crannies remain. Some cabins are finished with moss plugged into all the crannies, but mud worked into plaster does better.
It should be put on the outside first, and afterward finished from the inside. It is best done really with two plasterers working together, one inside and one out.
This completes the shanty, but a bunk and fireplace are usually added. The fireplace may be in one corner, or in the middle of the end It is easiest to make in the former.
Across the corner, peg three angle braces, each about three feet long. These are to prevent the chimney falling forward.
Now begin to build with stone, using mud as mortar, fire-place this shape. (Fig. 9.) Make the opening about eighteen inches across; carry it up two feet high. drawing it in a little, then lay a long stone across the front, after which build up
