is chiefly labour and sorrow, at least as far as coolies are concerned. Sungei Chok is not possible for a boat, but a day's jungle tramp (say about 20 miles) towards its Ulu, brings one to another limestone pile, of much greater dimensions. Its name is Gus Senoorat, it is from 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, and has a cave at its base capable of holding a couple of thousand people.
Doubtless in the fulness of time, when Kuala Lipis becomes the seat of Government and Europeans become more plentiful in the Ulu, these huge natural monuments will be more closely examined, but it will always be a source of satisfaction to feel that I was the first European to gaze upon them. What millions of years must have elapsed and what mighty changes must geologically speaking have occurred, since those huge beds were laid down in the ocean, and then slowly eroded and dissolved by the carbonic acid of the fresh water, after the ocean retreated, leaving only these isolated pinnacles to speak of what was once a continuous bed of limestone. The decomposition of this limestone doubtless has much to say for the better quality of the land on the Seran, of which I made mention earlier.
Leaving Kuala Chok, two hours poling brings one to Jeram Rimau, and though it is possible to drag an empty boat through it as I did, still future travellers would be well advised to make a camp, and leave their boat below it, and do any further travelling towards the Ulu on foot, for a short distance above the Jeram the river divides again into two streams which are both very shallow.
The right hand branch is still Sungei Besi, and the left hand one Sungei Wur, the waters of which I find almost join the head waters of the Telom, heading from opposite sides of the same spur. One day's tramp up either of these streams, brings one to the base of the main dividing range, on the other side of which is Kelantan.
After having my boat dragged through, and my baggage carried round the Jeram, 1 found it impossible to take the boat farther, and so made a camp at the junction of the two streams.
On the left bank of Jeram Rimau is a mountain fully 1,000 feet high, which the natives call Bukit Guroh, and to
