rion-devouring vultures. We were lodged for the night in a newly built house, belonging to a Persian Hadji, who was then absent at Amol. The cold here was very great, and we were glad to make use of mangols, or charcoal braziers.
The next morning, on rising at daybreak, we found to our dismay that snow was falling heavily, and was lying several inches thick on the ground. Our chavadar, in view of the stiff mountain pass which we had that day to cross, objected to leaving Raineh, but as we had no intention of being imprisoned for an indefinite time in this solitary Persian village, we compelled him to proceed. Wrapped in thick cloaks and waterproofs, with our heads bound up in 'Bashliks' and sou'westers, we clambered slowly up the dreary mountain pass in deep snow, proceeding in single file. All the mountain tops were lost to sight in the driving snowstorm. We took four hours covering twelve miles, and stopped for luncheon in a dreary little caravanserai, which we shared in common with several goats and innumerable cocks and hens. After an hour's rest, we proceeded on our
