not a single view from the highest terrace which is grand, because the island lies too near the mountainous shore on the one side, and the eye sees all round nothing except the lake,—which does not appear large,—and its garland of mountains.
On the part of the island which is not occupied by the grounds of the palace, stands an hotel for travelers, with wretched outbuildings.
I met at the hotel an American family, which I had seen some years before on the western shore of the Mississippi. Now, as then, we met with friendly sentiments. All parts of the world are coming nearer and nearer to each other. Human beings also; thanks to steam, and to the influence of mind!
I wished to take hence a little boat to Isola Madre—a half-hour's rowing from Isola Bella—and for this purpose went down to the shore where a number of gondolas lay side by side. A gentleman with black whiskers and mustache, rushed forward, saying that he would assist me in making a bargain with the boatman. He assisted me so far, that the little trip would cost me seven francs, and two vigorous rowers prepared themselves, with great importance, to receive me on board their gondola.
“Seven francs is the tariff-price,” asserted they and the dark-complexioned man.
“Very well!” said I, “take your pleasure with them then. For my part, I prefer returning by steamer to Palanza and taking a boat thence!” And I very quietly turned back towards the palace.
But now came first one and then another from the boats, running after me. “Signora, will you have a
