Page:Life in the Old World - Vol. I.djvu/421

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LIFE IN THE OLD WORLD.
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tending to the Apennines which bounded the horizon. Down in the valleys at my feet, I saw the rivers rushing along; further off, I saw the river Pelice unite itself to the Cluson, and the two united carry the waters of the valleys to the Po. The mist which rested upon the Po, marked out its course. High above this shone “La Superga,” with the Kings' graves upon its proud height; and to the west, close by the river, I could discern Turin. That was a view! The most complete which I had yet had of mountain and plain in this region. The Waldenses dwell in a perfect fastness of granite. It is redoubt after redoubt, with ditches and towers—but not the petty work of human hands!

With various kind and educated inhabitants of the valleys, I have now visited all such as are inhabited by an evangelical population. One portion, or the valleys of Fenestrille and Pragela, have a Catholic population established there from the time of the latest persecutions, which in part rooted out the original inhabitants, partly induced them, apparently at least, to adopt the usages of the Catholic church. That this is more apparent than real, is shown from the fact, that a few years back the Bishop of Pignerol established a severe search in these valleys after Bibles and New Testaments which the people had secretly preserved. He collected and burned—as trustworthy persons have informed me—many such.

The most beautiful and most fertile of the valleys is that of Angrogna. The cultivated heights ascend in terraces, carefully laid out, wherever the smallest turf is to be met with; fruit trees surround the farm