CHAPTER IV
ON the banks of the Tagus about four miles from the city stands one of the finest buildings in Portugal, the Church and Monastery of Santa Maria, known locally as the Jeronymos. Though the electricos in running out to the suburb of Belem pass through a busy commercial district many interesting impressions can be snatched between the successive relays of factories, storehouses, industrial yards, sheds and tall chimneys. Here is a glimpse of broad steps mounting from two sides to a high terrace, with walls and bluff overrun with wine-red masses of bougainvillia. Above are ramparts and old houses of a past generation.
Beneath the hill of S. Amaro is the head station with its numerous sheds and houses of the electric cars. A small belfry is just visible above the massed roofs on the steep height. It is the belfry of an ancient chapel dedicated to S. Amaro, a saint invoked for maladies which affect the arms and legs. In January the ancient and popular romario of S. Amaro takes place, and though in olden times people flocked in from the country to make this pilgrimage in greater numbers than to-day, it is none the less a very animated scene on the largo before the chapel: tents and booths in abundance, carts with casks of wine, pedlars and the traditional vendors of the new fir cones doing excellent business with the Gallegos and fisherfolk who chiefly frequent this special romario. For the sake of the panoramic view from the largo it is worth climbing the steep ascent of the hill.
Further on towards Belem fine gardens are seen, rich in palms; and other exotics show through high iron grilles, and the houses far behind the trees in seclusion. Barracks line the road at intervals. Now comes a long straight
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