erable. In some years it was estimated from 30 to $40,000, in others from 60 to $80,000, and in latter years even as high as $250,000 per annum.
July 11.–Loaded with specimens of gold ore, I started this morning to join the caravan again, which expected to reach Albuquerque within four days. The road from here to Albuquerque leads at first through a cañon in a SSE. direction, because a chain of granitic mountains to the west does not allow a more direct course. Tall pines, cedars, and sometimes a small oak tree, grow in the narrow valley, and all over the surrounding mountains. After having travelled six miles, I passed by a small Indian village or pueblo; they cultivate some fields by way of irrigation, but look exceedingly poor. The entrance to their houses was, as usual, a hole on the top, to which they climb on a ladder. Riding on through a solitary valley, I met with a Mexican soldier, who recognised me at once as a a "Tejano," and, professing great friendship, bothered me so long with his Spanish that I put my horse in a trot and left him, with his mule, behind. About 10 miles farther I reached a Mexican town, San Antonio; my horse was tired, and I would have wished, myself, to stop; but everything looked so mean and filthy that I passed through the town, and rode three miles farther. Here I met with a little stream, and followed it some distance into the mountains; and grass and water being excellent, I resolved to camp here for the night. I picketed my horse to the best grass, and prepared for myself a supper. In the night my horse, watchful as a dog, disturbed me several times by getting frightened and running towards me, but it was caused by nothing but wolves, deers, and other innocent animals.
July 12.–Following the course of the creek, I went in a southern direction about six miles through the valley, hemmed in on both sides by rugged granitic mountains. Turning then towards the west, I left the mountains for a plain, at the western end of which, in a distance of 10 miles, Albuquerque and the Rio del Norte lay before me. The plain affords good pasturage, and a great deal of stock was grazing here. The first view of the Rio del Norte was not imposing: it is a flat, shallow river, with bare and sandy banks, and with no mountains towards the west to form a background. Albuquerque is a town as large as Santa Fe, stretched for several miles along the left bank of the Rio del Norte, and if not a handsomer, is at least not a worse looking place than the capital. It is the usual residence of Governor Armijo; whenever he was out of power, he retired hither to work himself into power again.
Having ascertained in Albuquerque that the caravan had not passed yet, I retired to a rancho (small farm) near the town, to await its arrival. For several days I looked in vain for the caravan; but as it had rained in the latter days, I attributed their delay to the impaired roads. My poor but hospitable ranchero in the meanwhile did all in his power to make me comfortable. He picketed my horse to the fattest grass, and provided myself with milk, beans, and "tortillas," ad libitum. Those rancheros or small farmers seemed to me generally to be more honest than the rest of the population. They do not work to excess, because it is anti-Mexican; but at the same time they are so frugal, that they raise all they want. The country around Albuquerque appears to be well cultivated. Though the soil is sandy, and apparently not fertile, by irrigation they produce abundant crops, often twice a year. They cultivate mostly maize, wheat, beans, and red pepper, (chile colorado.) The fields are without fences. A canal by which water from the river is led into the plain, provides by its ramifi-
