that by avoiding Zămōră (the usual road), we might reach Văllădŏlīd one day sooner. From the time that we approached Tăngūāto, we began to remark a sensible improvement in the appearance of the country: there was more variety in the shape of the mountains, more wood, more water, and a richer vegetation. The cottages too, though small, were neat; the people cleanly and civil. A little beyond Tăngūāto, we found a very pretty lake, extending, with occasional interruptions, for nearly two leagues; it was full of little islands, covered with acacias, and abounding with wild-fowl of every description, while large herds of cattle occupied the potreros in the vicinity of its banks.
Having loitered with Mrs. Ward behind the rest of the party, which had struck into a different road, we stopped at a small hut to breakfast, where a pretty Indian woman, with a beautiful set of teeth, gave us some tortillas, with eggs, frijoles, chile, and a little meat for ourselves and two servants, for four reals. She was exceedingly communicative, and told us that her house, on setting out in life, had cost her four dollars, and her marriage fees twenty-two: that her husband had paid this, but was still in debt to the Padre for the baptism of a child, the fees for which he was then endeavouring to raise. We gave her a few reals towards so laudable a purpose, and left her highly pleased with our visit, as we were with her simple manners and conversation.
We found only the remains of a house at Chiring-
