Page:Mongolia, the Tangut country, and the solitudes of northern Tibet vol 1 (1876).djvu/111

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PASS OF GWAN-KAU.
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range is only developed fully on the further side, i.e. towards the plain at its base.

The road follows the pass of Gwan-kau the whole way from Chadau as far as the town of Nan-kau, situated at the egress from the mountains. The pass is only 70 to 80 feet wide at first, and is shut in by stupendous rocks of granite, porphyry, grey marble, and silicious slate. The road was once paved with stone-flags, but is now completely out of repair, and almost impassable for equestrians, although the Chinese drive their two-wheeled carts over it, as well as caravans of camels, laden with tea.

Along the crest of this range is built the second, so-called inner, Great Wall, far greater and more massively built than that of Kalgan. It is composed of great slabs of granite, with brick battlements on the summit; the loftiest points are crowned with watch-towers. Beyond it are three other walls, about two miles apart, all probably connected with the main barrier. These walls block the pass of Gwan-kau with double gates, but the last of all in the direction of Peking has triple gates. Here may be noticed two old cannon, said to have been cast for the Chinese by the Jesuits.

Immediately after passing through, the defile widens, although its wild, weird appearance continues for some distance further. Mountain torrents and cascades rush noisily down the rocks, and at the foot of overhanging cliffs Chinese houses appear everywhere, with their vineyards and small orchards of fruit-trees. At length the traveller arrives at the