CHAPTER 25
TRIMMING STITCHES
Machine Hemstitching—French Hemstitching—Plain Hemstitching—Imitation Hand-Hemstitching—Double Hemstitching—Beading and Fagot-Stitches—Drawn-Work—Rolled Edges—Combination Running and Cross Stitching—Diagonal Stitch—Double Overcasting—Cross Double Overcasting—Running Stitch used as a Trimming—Blanket-Stitch—Feather-Stitching—Bar Tacks—Arrow-Head Tacks—Crow's-Foot Tacks
Ill. 242. Baste with Self-Colored Thread
MACHINE HEMSTITCHING is used on blouses, dresses, lingerie, etc., to put together seams, finish hems and put on trimmings such as bands, etc. It is neat, durable and gives a garment a dainty, finished look. It is also used as a trimming either in straight rows or in a fancy design. Prices for the work vary, but it is not expensive. It can not be done at home, as the machine required is too costly, but any plaiting establishment or the salesroom of a sewing-machine company will do it.
The line or seam for machine hemstitching should always be basted in self-colored thread so that the basting need not be removed. (Ill. 242.) Removing the basting cuts the hemstitching. Only one mark is necessary for French hemstitching.
Seams on which machine hemstitching is used as a trimming or finish should be basted flat with both edges of the seam turned toward the left side (Ill. 243) and pressed. An invisible seam for transparent materials can be made by machine hemstitching an ordinary seam. (Ill. 244.) The seam is basted in the usual way and the hemstitching is done on the wrong side of the garment just outside the basting. (Ill. 244.) The seam edges are trimmed off. (Ill. 244.)
In machine hemstitching keep the garment as nearly flat as possible. Seams that are not to be hemstitched should not be basted or sewed until after the hemstitching is done, for if they are left open it will be possible to keep the garment much flatter. If a cuff is to be hemstitched to a sleeve, leave the sleeve seam open until the hemstitching is done.
 Ill. 243. Machine Hemstitching as a Seam Finish
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 Ill. 244. Machine Hemstitching for an Invisible Seam
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 Ill. 245. A Foundation Is Used Under Bias Edges
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