Ill. 17. A Line of Large Double Perforations is Always Laid on the Material Lengthwise and Parallel to the Selvedge or Crosswise from Selvedge to Selvedge
Large double perforations are used in cutting. (Ill. 17.) They show you how to lay the pattern on the right grain of your material. These large double perforations form a straight line which is always placed lengthwise or crosswise on the material.
Ill. 20. A Large Single Perforation
When they are laid on lengthwise they are parallel to the selvedge edges.
When they are laid on crosswise they run across the material from selvedge to selvedge.
Ill. 18. Large Triple Perforations
Many women take a ruler and draw a straight line through these perforations for it makes it a little easier to see that the line is the same distance from the selvedge from end to end.
Ill. 21. A Small Single Perforation
These large double perforations must be laid on a straight thread of the material so that the garment will set well and have the best effect when finished. If they are not placed exactly parallel to the selvedge or on a straight crosswise thread the garment will twist and look badly.
The large triple perforations are also used for cutting but they are always laid on the fold of the material, either a lengthwise or crosswise fold. (Ill. 18.)
Some skirts are cut with one bias edge on each gore. Others have two bias edges, depending on the design of the skirt. The perforations in the pattern will show you just how that particular skirt should be cut.
Ill. 19. Small Double Perforations
After you have pinned your pattern on the material it is advisable to take a ruler or tape and measure the cutting line to be sure that it is the same distance from the selvedge on each group of perforations.
Ill. 22. Single and Double Notches
Small double perforations are always used to mark the normal waistline in skirts, blouses, coats, etc. (Ill. 19.) In some cases they are also used to indicate special outlines at the neck, etc.
Large single perforations (Ill. 20.) and small single perforations (Ill. 21.) either alone or together are used for different purposes and their use is always shown in the Illustrated Instructions.
NOTCHES (Ill. 22.) are used at seam edges to show which edges should come together. Edges marked with notches are put together with the duplicate notches matching.
Pin the pattern in place with small pins placed as close together as necessary to hold the pattern firmly. Do not push the pins through the material recklessly, but take up as few threads as possible so as not to mark the material.
In cutting you must use sharp dressmaking shears and follow the edge of the pattern exactly. If you cut with small dull scissors you will get a jagged edge that you can not follow in basting. If you cut beyond the edge of the pattern you will change the size of the garment.
