Illustration 25 shows the easy curve which should be followed in finishing a dart in a waist pattern. The illustration shows the material basted with the corresponding perforations matched according to pattern instructions. The line of the basting should follow a reverse curve toward the point, running into the fold almost on a line with the fold. If a reverse curve is not followed (III. 26.) you will get a pouch effect, a sort of pucker, something that is seen at the top of a badly sewed dart.
All perforations and notches should be followed faithfully. They are the work of experts who have gone to an immense amount of labor and study to show you the absolutely correct way of putting together your garment. It takes a little time to mark them all carefully in the beginning, but you save that time over and over again before you are finished.
All the working perforations should be marked with tailors' tacks, using different colored cotton to mark the different sizes and kinds of perforations, so that you won't confuse them after you have removed the pattern from the material. (Chapter 16 III. 146.)
THE DELTOR gives complete suggestions for finishing the garment in the different kinds of material to which it is suited. The finishes given in the Deltor are those that would be used by the best Paris and Fifth Avenue establishments and if they are followed carefully the garment will have a well-made French look instead of "the home-made look" which is the result of improper and careless finishing. The suggestions given in the Deltor are explained and illustrated in The New Dressmaker. For example, if the Deltor tells you to use a French fell seam or a bound buttonhole, you will find illustrated directions for making the seam and the buttonhole in The New Dressmaker.
NOTE: If after reading this chapter carefully and following the instructions you are not entirely satisfied with the way you ha'e made any style of garment from a Butterick Pattern write to Eleanor Chalmers in care of the Butterick Publishing Company, New York City. Explain your difficulty as fully as you can and Mrs. Chalmers will help you.
